a repository for things done and thought and written in the past.
The majority of my writing is posted on my substack page.


Punka Burn
Ian Parnell profiles one of American climbing's more colorful characters, the influential alpinist Mark Twight.


Winter Dance
I thought one might climb ice in those conditions and I had ice tools, just no experience. It was winter, in Wyoming, waterfalls were surely frozen somewhere.

Youthful Epic
Snow had begun to fall and I was concerned that the rapid accumulation made the couloir more dangerous by the moment.

1999 Profile
When I first saw Mark Twight, he had just started climbing. A skinny, intense kid, he moved easily between rage and humor, contempt and the need to be recognized as superior.

Outside Magazine Q&A
If you look into yourself clearly, without casuistry, does everything that stares back at you make you happy? I hope not.

Older Not Wiser
Details about attempts to traverse the summits above Little Cottonwood Canyon remained vague since it had yet to be completed in a single push.

Digital Discussions
Digital is time (and money) thief. I spend now a lot of time in front of the computer and I have to admit that I don't like to spend so much time indoors.

A Good Salad
I tried to be casual about it but the diarrhea hit me at the same time. My Patagonia Baggy Pants could not conceal my loss of control.


Kiss or Kill Review
When these articles were first published, Mark introduced a controversial new style for mountaineering literature that caught the staid climbing community off guard.

Retired and Dull
I used to think I went through life talking to two people at a time. I think the web multiplies everything 100x, both the bad and good.

Silly Mistakes
The closest piece of protection is 20 feet below, meaning you'll go 40 feet minimum - IF your belayer is paying attention.

Lightweight
I defined myself as a climber during the rapid evolution of the 1980s, when Bohigas and Lucas climbed Annapurna's massive, technically severe south face in Alpine Style ...

Muscle and Fitness Interview
Improving sport performance is a question of attention, discipline, and effort. Practice makes habit. You become what you do. Do it right and evolve. Do it wrong and stagnate.

Night in Chamonix
I was going to have a few beers. Knowing better but doing it anyway, I bought Denis a shot of tequila.

Strap on the Nitro
On movie mountains invisible crevasses open and snap shut, snow and stones rain constantly, and 100-year storms kill once a week.

1999 Interview
I realized the shelves were full of books on mountaineering but none reflected the way people actually climbed on the world's hardest routes.
