Mark F. Twight
I was born in the mountains. I grew up middle class in an American city. I climbed mountains professionally for twenty years, making first ascents in the Americas, Europe and Asia. In those years I wrote articles for magazines, shot pictures to illustrate them and gave multi-media presentations in the U.S. and Europe. Later I wrote two books on the subject. Both won awards and were translated into German, Italian, Spanish, Slovenian, and Polish.
Upon retirement from the dangerous game of high-level alpinism I began training personnel from military and intelligence services. I was hired as a Subject Matter Expert to develop a new cold-weather clothing system for USSOCOM.
Having been a student of physical fitness my entire climbing career, it seemed logical to start a gym and web-based educational and motivational project. Gym Jones grew to have global influence, with certified instructors representing my method from Stockholm to Cape Town, from Cairo to Los Angeles, and from Toronto to Sydney. The project’s notoriety caught Hollywood attention so I went on to train actors for several blockbuster superhero movies.
Mountain climbing and movie work allowed me to travel to incredible places I would not have otherwise seen. Antarctica. Bulgaria. Israel. Iceland. Japan. Tibet, Nepal and Pakistan. Norway. Argentina. Bolivia. Australia. France, Italy and Spain. Detroit. Alaska. China. Russia. Kazakhstan. Canada, of course. And all over the American West.
From 2017 through 2024 I spent much of my creative energy on NonProphet, which was a small media project that published books, Zines, and the NonProphet Podcast. It had a good run but it’s done. I will take it alone from here, perhaps partnering with people and projects that inspire me as they crop up.
I have carried notebooks, a pen, open eyes and a camera in every place but I am not a photographer. I have a camera. I point it at things. I know my way around it, the darkroom and the computer. My life experience gives me unique perspective. Although I am not now the man of action I was, what I did informs what I do, and what I will do in the future.
Certifications: Wilderness First Responder, Level II Avalanche, 1911 Basic Armorer (NRA), Gunsite 556 (advanced carbine), Range Master Tactical handgun (48-hours), E.A.G. Instructor Proficiency Course (M4A1, MEUSOC Pistol) at 1MEF SOTG (2001)
Awards: Recipient: American Alpine Club Underhill Award, 2017, Winner: Mountain Literature category, 2001 Banff Mountain Book Festival, Winner: 1999 National Outdoor Book Award, Shortlisted: Trento Mountain Book Festival 2005, Champion: Utah State IPSC (Stock, C class), 2000, Champion: Montana State USPSA (Single Stack, C class), 2024
Trainer and Coach
From 1999 to 2011 I trained various military assets for the US Department of Defense, including the 75th Ranger Regiment (1st, 2nd, 3rd Bat, RRC), Special Forces (5th, 10th, 19th, 20th groups), Tier One (Special Mission Units) from all branches of service as well as US Federal Agencies, including FBI, DEA and USIC. Courses covered operator fitness, mountain and winter mobility, self-rescue, high altitude adaptation, crisis nutrition, movement strategy, and cold-weather survival and clothing systems.
Between 2005 and 2016, I designed and executed physical conditioning for the Warner Brothers productions of “300”, “Man of Steel”, “300: Rise of an Empire”, “The Man From U.N.C.L.E., “Batman vs. Superman: Dawn of Justice”, “Wonder Woman”, “Justice League” and "Aquaman".
Technical Advisor
During my climbing career I developed and tested ice-climbing equipment for Grivel, footwear for Asolo, clothing and packs for Lowe Alpine, and was instrumental in developing Patagonia's Regulator clothing system. I was contracted to Natick Labs (SOF Team, Individual Protection Directorate) as Subject Matter Expert in 2002 to design, oversee and test the Protective Combat Uniform (PCU) clothing system, which was fielded to the Navy in 2004 and all of SOCOM in 2008. I scripted, narrated, and appeared in a New Equipment Training (NET) DVD delivered with each PCU system fielded to SOCOM operators. Consultant for the MARS cold weather clothing system developed (by Patagonia) for SOTF.
BIO
Author
“Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High” (1999)
“Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber” (2001)
“REFUGE — Effort, Environment, Emotion” (2019)
"POISON — Sermons on Suffering" (2022)
My work has been published in seven countries and translated into five languages.
Business
I was the founder and Technical Director of Mountain Mobility Group, which provided training and R&D to the Department of Defense (1999-2015) and the founder of Gym Jones, a training facility providing physical training and education to public, military and movie industry clients (2004-2016). Founder of MFT Evol, a project built on photography, philosophy, and art that provides public speaking, and consulting to businesses and individuals in the context of fitness, nutrition, and small group dynamics (2015-current). Co-founder of NonProphet, a media company producing Zines, books, and a weekly podcast that examines the intersection of art and action (2018-2024).
Climber
I spent 20 years as a professional climber, making first ascents in the Alps, Himalaya, Andes, and Alaska.
2008 & 2009: Guided Navy personnel on the west buttress of Mt McKinley, in very light and fast style (one-day ascents from the 14,000-foot camp)
2000: 3rd ascent of the Slovak Route on Mt McKinley (6194m), Alaska, in a 60-hour non-stop push (prior ascents required 11 and 7 days), with Scott Backes and Steve House
1998: First ascent of "The Gift That Keeps on Giving" on Mt Bradley (2,770m), Alaska, in proper winter with Steve House and Johnny Blitz
1994: First ascent of "Deprivation" on Mt Hunter (4442m), Alaska, 72 hours RT, with Scott Backes
1993: First ascent of “There Goes the Neighborhood”, north face of Aiguille Sans Nom, French Alps with Scott Backes
1992: First ascent of “Beyond Good and Evil”, north face of Aiguille des Pelerins, French Alps, with Andy Parkin
1991: First ascent of “Richard Cranium Memorial”, northwest face of Les Droites, French Alps, with Barry Blanchard
1990: Solo ascent of the north face of Kusum Kanguru (6367m), Nepal, in 9 hours round trip
1990: First solo ascent of Czech Route, north face of Peak Communism (7495m), Pamirs
1988: First ascent of “The Reality Bath”, the world’s first Grade VII frozen waterfall, 600m, VII, WI6+, 5.7, with Randy Rackliff. The route was finally repeated in January 2025
1988: East Face of Snowdome, “Slipstream”, 925m, IV, WI4+, solo ascent in 2hrs 4min, a speed record that stands in 2025
1986: First ascent of the northwest ridge of Kangtega (6782m), Nepal, done in alpine style over nine days with Alison Hargreaves (to true summit), Jeff Lowe and Tom Frost (to north summit)
1994-2000: Performed several high altitude rescues on Mt Hunter and Denali, including the highest operational landing undertaken by a CH-47 (19,500’) after which Twight, Scott Backes and Alex Lowe rescued two Spaniards from 19,300’ on the West Rib.
Sport
2023: I started shooting USPSA matches after a 21-year break and dig the practice-under-pressure.
2018: Rebecca's Private Idaho Queen's Stage Race (gravel bike), 187 miles total, 21st overall
2014: Stony Creek Six Hour mountain bike race, 60 miles in six hours, 1st in 50+, 3rd overall
2013: Power Of Four ski mountaineering race, 27 miles, 11,500’ elevation gain, 7hrs 32min
2010: Tour de Park City (150 miles, 8000' elevation gain) in 6:57:36, 2nd place (Masters 35+B)
2009: Logan-to-Jackson (206 miles, 7500' elevation gain) in 9hrs 37min, 12th place in Cat 4
2007: Everest Challenge (215 miles, 29,000’ elevation gain) in 13hrs 47min
2005: Trofeo Mezzalama ski mountaineering race, Italy
1997-2003: IPSC and Three Gun competitor mentored by Rob Leatham and Brian Enos.