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Vertical https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/842ee138-fdc6-4b95-9eff-5d633eaa5e7e/L1007581-Edit_1850+copy.jpg Image - Vertical https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e6c9393d-6086-400c-b620-475d8810b494/L1009556-Edit_1850.jpg Image - Vertical https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/d5651d9a-dc37-412a-9485-ea5fa6ddf421/Tom+Frost+on+Kangtega+with+Rope+1-Edit-2_Folio_1.jpg Image - Vertical https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2fd8d4af-fdeb-44e5-a476-5426a837fc05/Jeff+Lowe+Nuptse+2-Edit_Folio_1.jpg Image - Vertical https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-image daily 0.75 2025-09-04 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-image/project-three-sng7y-9bsy8 monthly 0.5 2025-09-04 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/cd96c1db-912a-4c7f-98ba-fde84dfd950d/Alex_Prophet_Straddle_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1992: Alex Lowe during the first ascent of “Prophet on a Stick”, which is a variant to pitch two three (depending how you count) on Provo Canyon’s “Stairway to Heaven”. I’d done the free-hanging version of “Post Nasal Drip (“Snotty-Nosed Brat) but had never seen anyone mount up on such a stalactite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b1af1e35-87d1-4e66-9f78-50b13967ec91/MFT_Kangtega_runnel_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1986: MFT leading up the summit pyramid on Kangtega. Alison Hargreaves and I looked at it and figured it was four pitches so we took four ice screws and a single piton for the rock band we could see from below. The ice was bulletproof and the wall was twelve pitches high but we didn't turn back and summitted at 4:30pm. After we ran out of anchors on the descent I learned to chop bollards — in the dark since it was before any of us knew about V-Threads. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3993857b-897b-4984-a0e5-fd50f02351d2/MFT_Nuptse_winter_runnel_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1987: Leading the last pitch Jeff Lowe and I climbed on the south pillar of Nuptse during our winter attempt. This was shortly after the parasites attacked and Jeff had shit himself, and shortly before the same happened to me. We had no drugs so were forced to descend and after 48 hours of diarrhea in our high altitude suits even our cook and Sirdar wanted nothing to do with us when we reached the glacier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e338b86b-32d8-4e5d-86e4-fbe0d33db208/Randy_below_RB_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action February 1988: Randy Rackcliff approaching The Reality Bath during our successful visit. I think I was too scared during the first attempt to break out the camera - we were running and shitting ourselves at the same time, especially after the seracs calved and we were rappelling for our lives. A few people comment to me after seeing the route up close, commonly suggesting we must not have wanted to live. And it may have been true. Or we may have been truly tuned-in to the cosmos. Or we were over-the-top arrogant and believed we could get away with it. The route received its second ascent 37 years later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2d0b0c75-89ef-4216-8515-4670a486fa8e/Renault_Nuit-Blanche_size_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Late winter 1989 or 1990: Thierry Renault attempting a route that would eventually become "Nuits Blanches" above the Argentiere Glacier but this day it was too warm and that pillar was making noises like it wouldn't be standing for long so we bailed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/41e7b54d-a4c1-4e9d-b5ff-6332eaa57155/Rolo_and_Crew_2008.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 2008: Fro, Reeves, Rolo, Bill and John on the west buttress of Denali after summitting in a one-day trip from the 14k camp. Three years later a couple of these guys were killed when the Extortion 17 helicopter was shot down in Afghanistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/45c5cf91-f1fd-4161-9931-e1972bb8cf3e/Rolo_Fix.2.MOD10006_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Rolo having déja vu: we’d been to the top of Denali from the 14,000-foot camp already, took one rest day, and started up again. Caffeine was of little use ... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/524f9b26-7c22-4ddf-8b22-d63653b482e7/Saunders_Bike_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action August 2013: Ben Saunders in the Stonor Valley near Henley. We had some good rides together on that trip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/df062131-06fd-4f2c-adbe-d14799f1903c/Scottie_POWDER_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Late-90s: Scottie Ewing ripping in Crested Butte https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ba08656b-e22e-4b00-9eda-c42707c1ea31/Sneffels_Alkaitas_Hike_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 2013: Mike Alkaitis, Vince Anderson and Dave Ahrens just below the summit of Mount Sneffels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/691a84d3-5fb1-46f9-b6b2-42920905d8c1/Sneffels_Ski_Up_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Spring 2013: Vince Anderson knew I was game for some ski touring and asked if I wanted to be a “client” during a guide’s exam ... approaching Mount Sneffels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7c367f5f-d56b-4bb4-b558-6b453dab83e1/Vince_Snake_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 2013: Vince Anderson dropping in to the Snake Couloir on Mount Sneffels. Even after the boys chopped it up the skiing was remarkably good. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/8cd6dbe5-91ae-4c69-b4c5-5c0ff56671a3/Ace_Glacier_Pamirs-Edit-2_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Ace Kvale in the maze below Peak Korjenyevska in the Pamirs. After a complicated approach and a great bivouac bad weather turned us back - while our tough Russian companions continued up the nearby Romanov Pillar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/eafb8c0f-9212-4132-b1cf-aff7d665627e/Ace_Peak_4th_on_Foot.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1990: Ace Kvale nearing the summit of “Peak of the Fourth”, aka Peak Chetireh, (6230m) in the Pamirs near Peak Communism, which has since been renamed Ismoil Somoni Peak. On our second trip to the summit we descended on telemark skis – it took about a decade before I saw the light and locked my heels down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/8aad2fb6-e67c-49f6-919b-b6960e2182a1/Alan_Eiger_Exit-cracks_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Alan Bradley in the Exit Cracks on the north face of the Eiger. The belay anchor was crap and the cracks above bottomed-out or were worn round by centuries of flowing water. A long way above us, when he was well run-out Eric and I heard him mumble, "I'd kill for a pizza right now," which made some sense since we had run out of food. It also made us think Alan was a total hardcase. Later when we asked him about it, over actual pizza he admitted, "No. I said, 'I'd kill for a piece of pro right now'" and that made even more sense given the circumstances. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e09fe95e-7820-42ce-8516-a13ae4cc22e8/Alan_Jorasses_Approach_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Alan Bradley approaching the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in August 1985. It was too warm to try The Shroud but it was what we wanted to do (I'd done the Walker Spur earlier in the summer). We had a false start and chopped a ledge to wait for the rockfall to slow down but it never froze hard enough for the stones to stop falling so we bailed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/108e7506-b046-460b-9f3e-96d0150c4f8a/Alex_Carrying_Spaniard.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Alex Lowe (aka “The Lung with Legs”) carrying an injured Spaniard at 19,300’ on Denali, Alaska. A U.S. Army Chinook landed Alex, Scott Backes and I on the “Football Field” just below the summit to carry out the rescue. In doing so pilot Bill Barker set a high altitude record for that model of helicopter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/0c7b1597-d2a4-4a77-8af1-e499e5132238/Alex_Prophet.1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1992: Alex Lowe during the first ascent of “Prophet on a Stick”, which is a variant to pitch two three (depending how you count) on Provo Canyon’s “Stairway to Heaven”. I’d done the free-hanging version of “Post Nasal Drip (“Snotty-Nosed Brat) but had never seen anyone mount up on such a stalactite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b3a1b967-2191-4711-858e-82db29d7a43b/Alexi_Tchouky_Ski_Inylchek.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1991: Alexey Shustrov and Michel Fauquet below Peak Chapayev on a reconnaissance to the south face of Khan-Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan range. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/811c3bb9-485c-42cd-8eca-938d4a1716b9/Alison+on+top_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 1986: Alison Hargreaves approaching the summit of Kangtega (6782m) on day nine of our ascent. Earlier in the day Jeff Lowe and Tom Frost had climbed the northwest summit and began the descent toward base camp. Alison and I snapped a few pictures and began racing back to our snow cave on the summit plateau, an affair that lasted well into the night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/769e5178-7ceb-4730-8d27-98ead40e9b56/Andrew_Board_CutBack_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Late-90s: Andrew Bielecki at Loveland pass. He always found the perfect wave. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b8fd457e-05db-4d88-bb96-23f58b4fe621/Andrew_Dunes_Board_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Late-90s: Andrew Bielecki introduced me to the idea of sandboarding. He’d done it on the giant dunes of the Great Sand Dune National Monument but we had better access and freedom in Little Sahara. With the right slope angle and fresh furniture polish on the base he could really wail. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/99b054ea-9aab-4f76-a5c3-ceb2f9715939/Andrew_Sandboard_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Late-90s: Andrew Bielecki in Little Sahara. I was in love with my 20mm lens at the time so I shot everything close and wide. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7805e86f-4bda-40f3-b59f-b9641b3530b4/Andrew_Snowboard_Loveland_Air_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Late-90s: Andrew Bielecki at Loveland pass. Victorinox had come on board as one of his sponsors and he wanted some images for them. This was one of the first real action shots I made with a Leica M6 rangefinder. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/91e8e4bb-7299-460e-bd7f-7ee9245f08fd/Andy_Beyond_1st_Attempt_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action November 1989: Andy Parkin on the 5th pitch of what would later become a new route we named, “Beyond Good and Evil”, Aiguille des Pelerins, Chamonix, France. This was our first attempt, when we realized we weren’t going to run up it in a day, and that we needed more cams and fewer ice screws. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f3631d3b-e56d-43cc-8c18-6714e6a51bb6/Anne_Chere_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1989: Anne Smith in the Chere Couloir on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, France. To save weight we were climbing on a 8.5mm half-rope – not much use for run-out lead falls but I wasn’t going to fall. Still, once the avalanches started pouring down on us that same rope made for some short rappels, and a lot of down-climbing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/8c03978c-e6ce-4cd6-9a31-f3f12c229b4c/Anne_Hike_Couvercle.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1989: Anne Smith – ever in style or ahead of it - approaching the Couvercle Refuge, Chamonix, France. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f068474e-52d4-42cf-8dc6-5f2acba43596/Anne_Maudit_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1989: Anne Smith navigating the bergschrund below the Col de la Fourche. I wanted to do the Cretier Route on the east face of Mont Maudit but the ‘schrund beneath it was impassable – or maybe that was just an excuse – so we escaped via the Gabarrou-Steiner route on the southeast face. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ac3b7099-1dea-4a22-a8fc-2fe758e13627/Anne_Maudit_3.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1989: Anne Smith high on the Gabarrou-Steiner route, southeast face of Mont Maudit. The 1981 route was described in Mountain as the “South Face of the North Shoulder”. I believe ours was the first winter ascent, and a consolation after getting scared off the Cretier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a5d15335-cb17-4bb2-9339-a80278bc3a7a/Avalanche_Aftermath_Alps2_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Bjorn Andersen and Michel Fauquet wishing they had a spare set of underwear but happy to have avoided the big ride. Bjorn cut the slab, Tchouky (Michel) and I took one for the team. I came out on top. He skied deeper into the slide, was partially buried but got a hand out so he was quickly recovered. If the slab had a little more momentum we'd have gone the distance, about 2000'. Glacier Grande, above Trient, Switzerland. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a9e1916c-02d7-41ab-9c17-c80a24be2970/Backes_Bolivia_del_Norte_BW.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1996: Scott Backes on an acclimatization run in the Illampu massif. Pico del Norte, where we later climbed a new route we named, “Fuck ‘Em, They’re All Posers Anyway,” is in the background. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b79c9a33-3ffc-480c-9537-5b24a6614156/Backes_Bolivia_Pentitentes.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1996: Scott Backes navigating the unusual snow features that could make travel in Bolivia fairly time-consuming some days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/70edd4da-8965-4862-abc9-f7bac6c08e46/Backes_Cody_Ice_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Scott Backes on a cold day in Deer Creek near Cody Wyoming. “Too Cold To Fire.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3f9c8c79-6240-4161-836e-7868dd523f90/Backes_House.Ice.Runnel_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action June 2000: Looking down the ice ramp Scott Backes, Steve House and I used to bypass the headwall during our 60-hour single push ascent of the Slovak Direct. It’s close to midnight, 18 hours into the first “day”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7ed4d8e4-0af2-4920-ba91-570927aefa13/Barry_Kev_CaveSearch1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1988: Kevin Doyle and Barry Blanchard trying to find snow deep enough to dig a cave high in the Merkl Gully on the Rupal Face. We were about 1200’ below the summit of Nanga Parbat, thus 13,000’ up the biggest face in the world. We couldn’t get a cave, which is for the best because the storm lasted 12 days. Although we ran out of food that night we had a full tank of luck and spent every drop surviving. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e4ed4e31-ecf5-4691-87d4-6675349493c5/Barry_RCM_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Autumn 1991: Barry Blanchard high on the northwest face of Les Droites during the first ascent of the “Richard Cranium Memorial” route. Within the space of fifteen feet he broke two ice tool picks, and in this picture I believe he is following with one whole and one broken tool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/33a2581d-6218-4f01-aee1-be7fc69e61dc/Beaudoin_Poop_Chute.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1998: Christophe Beaudoin in the "Poop Chute" on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. I was shooting for a client and testing my Nikon F5 with a f2.8 20-35mm zoom against a Leica M6 with 28mm lens. Until I owned one, I always thought the Leica mystique was snobbish BS but the depth and richness of this Leica image blew the Nikon away – utterly – and I was totally converted. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f2279c84-f399-4a80-bcae-63a1675755fe/Beaudoin_Tacul_Sunet_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Autumn 1993: Christophe Beaudoin on the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. We had just climbed the “Macho Direct”, which is actually the “Macho Couloir” with the “Barton-Shaw” finish. That season it was in great condition with several fine, tough ice and mixed pitches giving us our money’s worth after a storm plastered the face with new snow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/19ba0899-1ae6-47f5-8a9c-fa7b1ed0984e/BernieBernthal_GlDuTour_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Spring 1998: Bernie Bernthal on the Glacier du Tour. I was in Chamonix to shoot pictures for a client and managed to get a day of touring with Bernie, Mike Hattrup and Bob Mazarei. Looking back, the skis seem really narrow and the heels decidedly free. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/fbd6c44a-a9c4-482c-b6f8-f4262bc347d7/Bike_Night_Snow_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Winter 2012: I was told by doctors to avoid the sun as much as possible so the winter of 2012-2013 was pretty dark. I rode a lot at night, skied up and down the slopes at Brighton after closing and eventually did some ski touring on easier terrain. I learned that the bike industry is years ahead of the backcountry hike/ski/climb industry when it comes to lighting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4169ffae-5299-43a4-852d-2896375ea8a2/Bill_14k_Wind-Blasted.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action The day after our second trip to the summit the forecast “wind event” began. Under clear skies the wind gusted up to 60 mph at 14,000’ (snapping a 2x4 supporting the NPS radio antenna), and later that night up to 110 mph at 17,000’. We built higher walls, shoveled plenty, and hunkered down. It wasn’t bad at all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e7d9b9cc-7462-4f78-883c-f7f2560f12ce/Blitz_EarlyWinter_Para_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1987: East Face of South Early Winter Spire in the North Cascades. The splash or white in the upper right corner of the face is a paraglider attached to Jonny Blitz who took an early downwind turn coming off the summit, lost control in the rotor and tumbled down the face like spilt fuck. One of very few trees snagged the glider and kept him from going to the ground. I borrowed a couple of ropes from Steve Swenson who happened to show up on top, rappelled down to Blitz and we jumarred out. We were far more freaked-out than he was. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/81b30fca-e0c9-4fd3-be0e-7aadc1f37df4/Blitz_Liberty_Para_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1987: Jonny Blitz filling the wing on top of Liberty Bell in the North Cascades. The take-off was dicey: fill it, run a few steps, jump to a small ledge and if it wasn’t happening abort or fall off the West Face. I recall he took 17 tries before launching. I had to wait another 45 minutes before conditions were right, and took off just before nightfall. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/478c72e1-7632-4793-8c97-aa06efbfee3f/CrestedButte_Run1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Late-90s: I was in Crested Butte to shoot pictures for an article about Ski Conditioning. The subjects were among the best extreme skiers of the day: Wendy Fisher, Kasha Rigby, Alison Gannett, Heather Paul and a couple of others whose names escape me right now. We had two good days on trails, at the local soccer field, riding cruiser bikes, and visiting the taco shack for post-workout nutrition. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/def3e390-82c5-4c5f-bdea-75cf5fca0e3b/Dave_Snake_1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Spring 2013: Vince Anderson knew I was game for some ski touring and asked if I wanted to be a “client” during a guide’s exam. Of course! I don’t have to pretend to be a shite skier, and I can feign altitude illness as well as anyone. I’d always wanted to ski the Snake Couloir on Mount Sneffels and this was a fine opportunity. Here, Vince observes while Dave Ahrens of San Juan Mountain Guides takes what he can get - seconds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/08b17c88-de4b-4e85-b1b8-6ed19fc7de26/Denali_11k_Wind-Blasted.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action We left the 11,000-foot camp at about 11:30pm in rather horrible conditions with near-zero visibility and between one and two feet of new snow depending on how the wind moved it around. We traveled from wand to wand, sometimes missing them, veering off route, fighting the tendency to turn out of the wind, and constantly checking ourselves against the compass and a few waypoints stored in the GPS. After traveling through the night we rolled into the camp at 7800’ to recover a cache we left there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a005cd43-682e-4a9b-b3df-8cffd0ddfeeb/Denali_Kahiltna_Ski_down.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Striding out of the 7800-foot camp toward the day’s reward: a break in the weather. After 11 hours on the move we skied up Heartbreak Hill to the airstrip where a plane promptly landed and six of our guys got on. The rest of us waited for varying periods but all got out that day, rolled to Anchorage that afternoon, and a few sampled the local “rewards” typical to a Denali trip later in the evening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4c78a3e2-e9bd-4712-a64a-13489cbeab76/Denali_Top_2008_2.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 2008: Just below the summit of Denali. It was my second trip to the top from the 14k camp in a three-day period. I was starting to feel pretty fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/79c2e42b-183d-435f-b0a8-9d6f7274886a/Denali_Top_2008.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 2008: Rolo Garibotti with Bill and Rob nearing the summit of Denali. A few of the guys from that trip were killed three years later when they went down with the Extortion 17 helicopter in Afghanistan. We shared a lot of time in the mountains and that loss was especially hard because a lot of former students were died at once, not the usual one or maybe two at a time, which is somehow easier to assimilate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3d71d6b0-7b9b-4894-a8c3-9e5e89365e57/Dominique_Exit_Eiger_1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action June 1990: Dominique Gleizes exiting the west face of the Eiger. It was his 50th base jump and almost his last as the snowboard flipped him upside down https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2998ff25-25c9-4a03-8bcf-04198814472e/Dominique_Toss_Orange_2_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action June 1990: Dominique Gleizes at the exit on the north side of the Petit Clocher du Portalet. His trick to gauge how long he could freefall before tossing the drogue was to time how long an orange that he dropped would fall before impact. His descent basically followed the line of “Etat du Choc” a Remy brothers route from 1983. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2f0bb207-83cb-4ab8-bba8-2f499edd47ba/EdBetty_Hike_LaPaz_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action June 1995: Ed and Betty Pope hiking to acclimatize above La Paz. The trips we took to some of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world, and the experiences we shared there developed into lifelong friendship. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/19d5d779-2fe4-48ee-8703-4fead4d02944/Eiger.Profit_passes_1984_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action While Jon Krakauer and I were retreating from the north face of the Eiger in 1984 we crossed paths with Christophe Profit and Sylviane Tavernier. It was the first time I ever saw anyone short-roping. It looked dangerous. I had no idea that it was one key to swift movement in the mountains. The pair were absolutely blazing up the face. They retreated in the face of the same conditions that forced us down and on the deck at a Kleine Scheidegg café Profit told me about Chamonix, and that I should go there. I took his advice and it changed me forever. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/29833e7e-7b70-4eac-adbf-7d04c17fe385/Eric_Alan_Eiger_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1985: Eric Perlman and Alan Bradley below the Ramp on the Eigerwand. We began climbing as a Spanish team was being rescued from high on the 1938 route, having been caught in a three-day storm that plastered the face with snow and ice. We wore crampons for virtually every pitch and halfway down the west face. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f0dabeac-9e5e-427c-9b69-2a8adc78fee1/Fencing_Paris.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 2012: Rich Cetrone at the Paris Racing Club. He had never done any fencing but a lot of boxing and martial arts so he had no trouble with the foot movement or hand speed. Over the weeks we used the space I got to watch him practice with current and former Olympians, for which I felt incredibly fortunate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3fa59fe8-1ad8-49fb-b10d-5290fb9c26bf/Headed_Home_2008.1.MOD10004_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Walking out of the 17,000-foot camp into an incredible sunset. Colors and textures were enriched by fatigue and a sense of accomplishment but also by the requirement for complete attention to detail for another couple of hours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/5e105e81-4b33-4c93-8130-c7890bfbb6c5/Heath_Dave_Denali_Pass.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action About 12 hours into the day, descending toward Denali Pass. I took our second team of guys to the summit from 14,000’ in a 15hrs 30min roundtrip. Despite it being a big day, I think this is the best way to climb via the West Buttress: hang out at 14k for a few days, take day trips with a light pack to 16k and 17k, rest well, then punch for the top. One avoids carrying a huge load to 17k and sleeping there, where recovery isn’t on the menu, only deterioration. Starting fresh and hitting the top from 14k carrying a day pack is no harder than starting wasted from 17k. One may need a bit better fitness, and certainly the discipline to pay attention for 15 to 20 hours straight, and the sense to take care of hydration and nutrition throughout the day. Still, it ain't easy ... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/15590ffd-3737-47b1-afcf-29ec8809d4ff/Heath_Dave_Wasted.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action For hours these guys dug into themselves for something they'd never had to access before. A few steps and collapse. A hopeful look upwards to see if the summit came any closer while they had their heads on their knees. No. Damn. More work. More digging. More giving, everything. Effort upon effort. Until they could climb no higher. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/19668150-51dd-4164-b279-55ed8cb3419a/Helicopter_Crane_SilverStar_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Early-2000s: Zack Snyder was shooting TV commercials in this period and whenever he needed some guys to rig or look after mountain safety we helped him. If memory serves, this was a Chevy spot. Steve House was in charge of helo safety. Rolo Garibotti and I did the drilling and climbing – and falling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/11f118ae-c965-48c0-a094-218f4c198417/Helo_Cosmiques_1980s.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Mid-80s: I was bivouacked on the porch of the old Cosmiques hut at the Col du Midi. They were pouring the foundation for the new hut, flying concrete up to 3800m one bucket at a time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2f4c8110-1a2e-4d2b-ab0a-e64527d5efa9/Helo_Iceberg_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action One of the scarier moments I've had. The helicopter dropped us atop an iceberg floating off the Antarctic Peninsula. We had no boat, an afternoon's worth of food and drink, and a bunch of camera gear. I recall some of us were wearing flotation devices, which seems a bit silly now ... I mean, why bother prolonging it? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4541d940-5ff8-4431-bef6-00f479c09183/Helo_Mosvina_BC_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1990: The Moskvina Glacier base camp is accessed by helicopter. The daily flights were good entertainment during the four weeks we spent there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/70a04ca2-384a-453d-a656-1e7fa3112e95/Helo_Tchouky_Portalet_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1990: On top of the Clocher du Portalet with Michel Fouquet, aka Tchouky. We were there to film Dominique Gleizes base jump off the northwest face. This was about the smallest summit I ever accessed by helicopter, and quite terrifying until we’d done it a few times. That summer, or the following, I climbed a fine route up the tower named “Chic, Chec, Choc” with Marie Hiroz and was once-again amazed at how small the summit truly is. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9bdc07cd-e50b-4c52-88ab-623415e3324d/Helo.KhanTengri_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1991: It took three flights to ferry all of the personnel and equipment to our base camp on the South Inylchek Glacier below Khan-Tengri. The flight from Kegen covered 120km. We had no radio contact with the outside world, only the agreement that the pilot would return in four weeks so what we brought was all we had. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7c621f8c-33c4-46ef-a8d2-c9a03642a1dd/House_Blitz_Roderick_Ruth_TAT.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action March 1998: Paul Roderick from Talkeetna Air Taxi delivering Jonny Blitz, Steve House and I to the Ruth Glacier where we went looking for the ephemeral ice lines we hoped would be there. After some hit and miss we eventually made the first ascent of “The Gift (That Keeps on Giving)” on the south face of Mount Bradley. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/580161cc-686a-403b-9356-b2af30f06283/House_CZD_1st-block_2-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Steve House early during the first day on the Slovak Direct. The route sneaks up the ice runnel on the left of the tower. We were moving well and had already passed the Slovak team's first bivouac site after about two hours of climbing. It was a glorious weather window that opened long enough for us to blast up the face in 60 hours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/42871e45-1f75-4c55-823b-dffbef29959a/House_Denali_Summit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Steve House approaching the summit of Denali in June 2000 during the acclimatization trip we made to the top before launching on the Slovak Direct. It's always amazing to see how little gear one needs, and how little clothing when operating well within his threshold of competence and experience. As I have often said, "What if?" weighs a lot more than "Why not?" https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/1daaa47e-4f60-42a4-bf3e-8476f305f6a9/House_Eva_Ski_tour.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 2015: These days we live our lives far apart so we take advantage of whatever opportunities we might have to share some time together. Touring with Steve and Eva House in the Wasatch on a day when the conversation was way better than the skiing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/5b4dbe9d-6c86-45c5-a688-cff7d780da84/House.Ramp.CZD_W_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action June 2000: Steve House traversing above “The Shield” on the Slovak Direct. We were trying to connect the dots on the south face of Denali, and the exposure at this point, 5000’ up the face, was exceptional. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/23c1494b-258c-422b-ab1c-8e7ed7dcb505/House.Steep.Ice.CZD_W_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action June 2000: Steve House getting down to the business, certainly the technical crux of the Slovak Direct on Denali: solid grade 6 ice. The real crux though came later … https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4412456e-2e31-4977-9a40-074c48eb307a/Iceberg+climb_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action February 1997: Mark Wilford soloing in the Iceberg Cemetery near the Antarctic Peninsula. It was a beautiful and scary place. The ice shelf below the surface gave the illusion of warm Caribbean water but the reality is below freezing, 175 meters deep, and black as coal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/904b37c4-f18a-4c7a-8ea3-24208b098af2/Iceberg_Climb_2.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action February 1997: There’s no instruction manual for climbing icebergs. We thought it might be better to solo wearing a life jacket, but hitting water from a hundred feet would be like decking anywhere. Because we used the rope, we carried knives to cut tools and rope away, which might let us tread water more easily. Neither of us had dry suits so we wouldn’t last long anyway. Under the 60th parallel the ocean is actually below 32˚ but salt content keeps it from freezing. The ice itself is weird. Compressed on the continent for several thousand years, after breaking off to become an iceberg , it tries to fall apart. Without support or geologic compression, gravity tugs from all angles while salt-water nibbles at integrity. Icebergs roll over without warning. People have seen them disintegrate for no reason. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/fd644a5e-6ebc-44bd-b2ca-d194a374323d/Iceberg_Lagoon_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action February 1997: Mark and Lucas waiting for “Action” in the Iceberg Cemetery. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/456e09f6-3d4f-4d65-bbda-4f8f8fd4e861/Jeff+approach9ng+A4+pitch_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 1986: Jeff Lowe approaching one of the steeper rock bands on day four of our pre-monsoon attempt on the south pillar of Nuptse. I aided half of a rope length on KBs, small wires, and a RURP or two (we called it old A4). We bypassed the aid on ice during our winter attempt. During a subsequent attempt a bolt was added to this pitch ... which is what you get when you “carry courage in your rucksack.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/fbcc1e34-181f-44e2-91ce-66eb3cefa501/Jeff_Kangtega_Headwall_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Jeff Lowe leading the opening pitch of the headwall on the northwest ridge of Kangtega. I had never seen anything like it and felt quite over my head for a while. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e3b2e3f0-0983-4031-a9d2-20174405fcc6/Jeff_Nuptse_Rap-to-Tower_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 1986: Jeff Lowe rappelling back to retrieve the heavy packs during the sixth day of our pre-monsoon attempt on the south pillar of Nuptse. What we thought would be an inconsequential afternoon thunderstorm turned into nagging precipitation that eventually caused us to retreat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7dcbb5d8-df76-4444-a4cf-1c803e94c485/Jeff.lead.behindDiamondPillar_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 1986: Jeff Lowe climbing during the sixth day of our pre-monsoon attempt on the south pillar of Nuptse. The following day a storm shut us down, which preceded an entertaining exercise in gear conservation as it took 48 rappels to reach the base of the pillar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/997befe3-41ea-4f87-b819-7e3d4d96e1ed/Kev_Ward_Haulbag_Smiles_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1988: Kevin Doyle enjoying a four year-old Cadbury Fruit & Nut bar recovered from a tattered haul bag we found “clipped to a piton at 22,000 feet. Barry cut it open without expectation. 60 pitons spilled out, followed by a dozen ice screws, chocolate bars, and at the bottom, two brand new 50 meter ropes.” The bag was cached by Tsuneo Hasegawa in 1984. Three of his partners disappeared during a summit bid. And prior to returning to Japan, his team stashed the gear necessary to survive at the top of the Welzenbach Couloir; a chokepoint they’d have to pass if descending the face. Instead of saving them, it saved us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/da5ae2d1-2c56-4199-8e08-317355103b61/Kevin_Welzenbach_seracCROP_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1988: Kevin Doyle in the Welzenbach Couloir on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat ... not exactly the safest place in the world, though an expedient line. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f07995c6-9f96-4366-8594-0572474b05ac/Krakauer_Eiger_Hose_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action October 1984: Jon Krakauer in the "Ice Hose" that connects the First and Second Icefields on the north face of the Eiger in autumn 1984. Higher, we realized there was too much snow on the face so we bailed out. It had been the wettest September since 1864 and conditions didn't come good on the face for a month or so. When they did, Christophe Profit who turned back the same day we did, returned with Bruno Cormier to recon the face for Profit's 10-hour solo ascent of the 1938 route in March 1985. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/fa45dbd4-a76a-4a22-91f2-554f86e2cdfb/Les_Lloyd_Grand_Teton_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action June 1981: As the final exam during a Mountain Instructor Training Course offered by Exum (instructors included Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard, Dave Carman, Kim Schmitz, Peter Lev and Harry Frishman), different teams of students were assigned routes to complete. I roped up with Les Lloyd and we followed Yvon who was leading Dave Kahn and a gal named Polly up steep ice runnels on the upper west face of the Grand Teton. Les had far more experience than I so led every pitch. The exposure was daunting to my young mind. Despite the top-rope, it was a fantastic, eye-opening experience that pushed me toward the greater ranges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/5aeae2bc-eef4-4ad3-af28-b5ee05537c81/Lisa_Cody_Ice_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Lisa and I used to climb frozen waterfalls in Cody, Wyoming for Christmas. The most memorable Christmas dinner in the early-2000s came from a gas station after we returned too late from the South Fork to catch a better store open. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/1923da77-5b7a-4bdd-9b24-799d8f72861d/Look-down_Charmoz_Email_LARGE_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action November 1984: looking down the north face of the Grands Charmoz from the Heckmair-Kroner finish. My experience on this route and the subsequent descent (described in the first chapter of Kiss or Kill) sent me packing after a good couple of weeks in Chamonix. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3a3b1127-331d-4e5a-a3f3-e0dc673278fe/Marsigny_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1998: Francois Marsigny in the "Poop Chute" on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. I was in Chamonix to shoot some pictures for a catalog client and to test my Nikon F5 with a f2.8 20-35mm zoom against a Leica M6 with 28mm lens. This one was shot with the Nikon. The Leica won - by a long shot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c16e8018-1b68-4e19-b314-4abdbfdb2936/MFT_ABC_4209_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Summer 1991: ABC television came to Chamonix to shoot an episode of “The Extreme Edge” featuring me soloing the Frendo Spur on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. David Breashears (who passed away in 2024) filmed me from various locations on the face using a small “lipstick” camera. I had a similar camera on my helmet. We both carried microwave transmitters that beamed the images to receivers at the base of the face. Peter Pilafian shot from the helicopter and covered the interviews. Marie Hiroz recorded the audio. Local legend Jean Afanassieff coordinated the project. He passed away in 2015. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/d09279ea-c950-4a41-8662-3511d2b90ec0/MFT_Birthright_2nd-pitch.1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action October 1993: On the 2nd or 3rd pitch of Birthright. The ice was not really ice and quite thin but there was always just enough to coax us higher. The route offered some “memorable” climbing, specifically in the big corner where Scott could only place three pieces of protection on the entire 60-meter pitch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/1c5ab7d9-b827-45ac-82ea-460d1ce556df/MFT_Breithorn_Shapiro_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action December 1989: I was posing in front of Mark Shapiro's camera for an ad commissioned by Asolo. Posing always gets one in trouble. What appeared to be casual was, of course difficult and scary -- an awful lot like the real thing. Except the mind isn't in the mood for the real thing. And I can't think of a guy who deserves it more. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/646998da-902a-4e74-8120-b62dbac632f9/MFT_Cody_Ice_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Winter 1994/95: I believe this is “The Pillar of Pain”, which you reach by climbing “High on Boulder” and doing a little hiking. Michael Gilbert snapped the photo. If memory serves he was partnered by Kevin Cooney with whom I took an interesting trip to the Alps about a year later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/771a56e4-2452-4def-ae1d-9a14d3d2fe1a/MFT_Crazy_Train_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action October 1995: Charly Oliver, Cathy Beloeil and I hiked into the cirque below the Diamond on Longs Peak after a huge autumn storm. No one had ever seen or heard of ice forming in this location on the lower east face but it comes in more frequently now. I couldn’t finish it this day. It was later climbed and named “Crazy Train”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e17ab9c6-d7be-4239-a2c6-492d479ee1de/MFT_Eiger_Rice_Crispies.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action September 1984: At Kleine Scheidegg after the foehn destroyed our camp. We found the tents about 400 yards from where they had been pitched and tied down to heavy logs. A dozen eggs were no longer in their shells but coated everything in my tent. At least the breakfast was intact. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/dfeb912f-c22f-47a8-a524-fafbce21b3ba/MFT_Eiger_snowy-crack_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1985: Following the crack above the Brittle Ledges on the north face of the Eiger. To quote Dougal Haston, “nothing harder than 5.7 says the man who has never been there.” It seemed hard at the time but both the pack and my discomfort (aka fear) were heavy. Eric Perlman snapped the picture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b4c69598-ab31-4c2a-970c-8bdb719a65c9/MFT_Everest_8k_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action October 1988: Above 8000m on the north side of Everest. Barry Blanchard and I were on our 3rd attempt of a new route that would have exited in the Pinnacles on the northeast ridge. Shortly after the photo was taken Barry began exhibiting symptoms of cerebral edema and we finished the day in a very tough fight to save his life. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2da5c68f-e547-4a3f-afeb-38797a68e85f/MFT_Everest_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action October 1988: After our attempt on Nanga Parbat Barry Blanchard and I took a month off and then made three attempts on a new route up Everest. We tried it without O2, ropes, hardware, or bivy gear at first then added a tent on our 3rd go. Finally, on the 4th try we took a tent, shared a sleeping bag and still got skunked at 27,500'. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/bfdf9bd1-a343-43e5-80b2-0915913f992a/MFT_Hunter_4th-rockband_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 1994: Leading the steep ice pitch through the 4th rock band during the first ascent of “Deprivation” on Mount Hunter. It was genuinely hard. We called it grade 6. I ran out of screws. The belay anchor sucked. Hauling both packs was “fun.” We climbed through the night to reach the summit of the North Buttress at sunrise where we finally were able to stop and brew up before continuing up, over, and down the West Ridge to reach base camp after 43 hours on the move. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f7cff0c5-4e92-46a0-826a-d5c7358bfa49/MFT_Kangtega_Rap-gully_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1986: Day 10, I think. Alison Hargreaves and I had reached the summit of Kangtega the day before. Arrived in the late afternoon in perfect weather, where we watched a magnificent sunset that meant a long descent into a long night. We ran out of anchors. I taught myself to chop bollards on the fly. In the dark, batteries in the headlamp barely hanging on. She frostbit her toes. I warmed them against my bare stomach back in the snow cave. After a few hours of bad sleep suddenly it was day 10 and we were rappelling down, and down, 43 total if memory serves. Down to warmth. Back to safety. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/219b754a-b52b-4a4d-a4c5-adde3265da46/MFT_Khan-Tengri_Icefall.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1991: Retreating off the south face of Khan-Tengri in the heat of the sun and under the gun. Absolutely terrifying. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/54e6b79c-328b-4870-8312-007165a2842a/MFT_Khan-Tengri_Night.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1991: Tchouky and I left our tent at 7pm. The full moon allowed us to move without headlamps. Ace and John waited in the tent listening to the walkie-talkie. By 2am we stood half way up the face. We had climbed above the windbreak provided by the southwest ridge. The upper face was exposed to the jet stream. It was –17˚F in Ace and John's tent 5000' below. We’d nearly been killed by two different serac avalanches. It was time to go down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f78749c7-794a-4d58-8e86-72be50731877/MFT_Leap_Schrund.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Spring 1989 or ’90: When Ace Kvale, Mike Powers and I woke to sucking gray clouds in the Fourche bivouac hut we decided to bail back to the cable car. We had gone up to shoot pictures and although I thought the trip a waste it netted a Rock & Ice cover, and later the cover of Desnivel. Not this shot, of course, which depicts frivolous risk … https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/beb63a15-4a39-4a06-85c5-8c55c5ede023/MFT_Midi_Ice_Robert.1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action September 1989: I was posing in front of René Robert’s camera on the Aiguille du Midi. It always looks easier than it is and there’s always a rush to get the shot. I’m surprised I didn’t get hurt on one of the many photo and film shoots I did over the years. It would have been ignominious and, some would venture, appropriate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/91cde534-aa5a-4df0-9ae9-06c035c30536/MFT_Nancy_Aiguille.2_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1998: Nancy Feagin and I went to Chamonix with photographer Jim Martin to shoot the instructional pictures that illustrate the book, Extreme Alpinism. Desnivel magazine used this one on the cover of the issue announcing the book’s publication in Spanish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c05febea-68ff-425c-a4fb-f8c8d3a363ba/MFT_Rooster_Comb_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1985: Many pitches up the Colton-Leach route on the north buttress of the Rooster Comb in Alaska. We climbed 16 pitches the first day, had a splendid bivouac during which we were treated to an intense northern lights show. The second day didn’t go so well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/65e300cf-79e8-418e-966b-86a6d290386e/MFT_Serac_PTL.work_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action June 1992: Soloing on one of the scariest seracs I have ever climbed. Though steep the climbing wasn’t hard but due to the heat the exit was soft, slushy, and insecure. Though not obvious the exposure is huge, about 3000’ to the glacier below. The serac is above and west of the Gouter Hut on the normal route up Mont Blanc. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/992f52b9-9b97-4c91-8426-84cb83579a30/MFT_Snotty_Nosed_Brat_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1992: I was visiting Utah for and discovered the waterfall climbing in Provo Canyon. Alex Lowe had climbed “Post Nasal Drip” in what would have been “unformed” conditions, meaning the pillar was still a stalactite. He renamed the modern version “Snotty-Nosed Brat”, told me how good it was so I went to have a look. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/8fd499e2-0f0f-4dd8-94eb-f188dc10f122/MFT_Snotty_Nosed_Brat_2.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1992: Climbing on free-hanging icicles wasn’t yet the norm when Bill Belcourt and I went to look at “Snotty-Nosed Brat”. With one bolt and a couple of cams in the rock for protection and the climbing not that hard, the whole affair seemed quite reasonable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/0dd6a895-d22b-410f-9dd0-963a2c7f0bc4/MFT_Trident_Peak_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1991: Leading on the north face of Trident Peak in the Tien Shan. Stupid really, since it was so bitter cold and the face never got sun. I think we got about nine pitches up before pulling the pin. We wouldn't have topped out before dark and it was no place to be doing the "night naked" thing since the pitches were taking a while to lead. Accustomed to a diet of Chamonix granite, my partner wasn't dialed on the whole notion of loose rock and bad pro - or tied-off ice screws. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/40abe671-82fc-4bf4-958f-9ca646e6a8ca/MFT_Trident_Peak_solo.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1991: To acclimatize for our attempt on the south face of Khan-Tengri, Michel Fauquet and I took a crack at the north face of Trident Peak. With temperatures well below zero (F), no sun on the face ever and really short days, the attempt was doomed from the outset. We quickly ran up the lower apron, ran into a few pitches of tough mixed climbing and with spotting advice radioed to us from below decided that discretion was the better part of saving our toes and fingers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/55eb9b04-a892-4dac-b606-082fc36a866f/Over_Under_Loaded_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 2008: I’ve seen a lot of things that made me scratch my head in the mountains but watching this overloaded fellow struggle up the headwall on the West Buttress of Denali made me scratch harder than usual. Contrasted to the little pack the leader carried when we climbed the Slovak Direct on the same mountain the mega-load is even more perplexing. On the Slovak Direct, three of us shared a total of 55 pounds in our packs when we started and 18 of those pounds were water. I would argue that the pack this guy is carrying weighs at least 80 pounds, which is crushing at any altitude. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b466dc43-6654-4ef0-abf9-18c76fe5ed66/Paraglider_Moscvina_BC_Crash_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1990: We met two guys at the Moskvina Glacier base camp in the Pamirs who were into paragliding. One had made his paragliders at home. He loaned one to a friend, explained the basics of take-off, which went fine, flight, which went OK and landing, which did not go well at all. I ran the motor-drive on my F3 as the guy stalled his wing above the LZ and burned in from about 80 feet, breaking both of his legs. The helicopter flew him out the next day but I doubt he ever walked the same after that. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f512de7f-b1e7-4154-8742-b2173b89c2a1/Paraglider_MtWebster_1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Autumn 1987: New England isn’t prime paragliding terrain but we were into it and forced the issue and sometimes had to fight for it as happened here, on top of Mount Webster in New Hampshire. The pilot is one of Titoune Meunier’s nephews from France. Rick Wilcox is on the right. Dave Walters is keeping hold on the left. Andy Tibbets aka "Captain Adrenalin" is in the red coat further left, noted on this day for having forgotten his harness and flown the site using some 1" webbing tied into an 8 for his legs and a waistbelt. Ballsy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c330ce4d-cd2d-422f-b76b-05a61280f0e1/Stoddard_Rooster_Comb_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1985: John Stoddard high on the Colton-Leach route on the north buttress of the Rooster Comb in Alaska, gunning for a bivouac site 16 pitches up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/359292c4-783c-4bbf-bc8f-d258945ea5de/Stoddard_Rooster_Comb_2.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1985: John Stoddard leading the 17th pitch of the Colton-Leach route on the Rooster Comb, which was graded 5.9 A2 or thereabouts. A little higher than he is in the photo John was aiding off an RP nut and when it ripped he fell. It was only a short distance but caught a frontpoint in the sling of a tied-off Lost Arrow below, which snapped his ankle. After 15 or 16 rappels we reached the glacier. John crawled behind me as I post-holed and widened the trail. The next two days – trying to make contact with the outside world to organize a rescue - were memorable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/38555bcd-5be1-4c77-92a5-956936140c0a/Tad_Cold_Windy_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action March 1996: Tad Linn scouting terrain between the Matterhorn and the Eiger during the preparation to link the three great north faces using bikes and skis. Getting from one face to the next wasn't obvious so we had to rehearse. On this day we began in Blatten, skied up to the Kanderfirn, through a pass separating the Gspaltenhorn from the Breithorn and down into Stechelberg at the head of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. It was so cold and windy Tad suggested it was, "good conditions for drying meat." https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/6a46e951-d8be-4d91-96a8-9ec89deb0aac/Tchouky_Khan-Tengri_Glacier.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action February 1991: After we failed on the south face of Khan-Tengri, Tchouky, Ace, John Falkiner and I joined the Shustrov brothers to attempt the normal route. After one night in a snowcave we managed to reach 6300m before the wind drove us down. I’d been cold for so long and the fire of motivation I’d had when we arrived wasn’t warm enough to push me any higher. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/08d5c303-9d4a-4a16-af08-8026d5b64781/Thierry_Renault_1987_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action February 1987: Thierry Renault - who held the speed record on The Nose for a while - during the first ascent of "Sueur Froide" across from Les Houches. He brought modern sport climbing movement, developed on limestone by he and Edlinger and Berhault to frozen waterfalls. He used plastic boots made by Trappeur that blended a plastic lower shell with a flexible leather ankle cuff much like what is presented as “modern” today. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7cdbb4da-c5dc-43e5-a976-66035555609c/Ward_Nanga_ILL_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1988: Ward Robinson in the Merkl Gully on Nanga Parbat. He wasn't well-acclimated when we began climbing so the higher we climbed the sicker he got. On this day -- the 5th -- we got as close to the top as we would but the storm, his illness, and a very strong desire to live drove us down. The descent left an indelible mark on us all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/90daa231-ef6e-4d4b-bf5b-784fdfcd00f6/Ward_Nanga_Merkl_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1988: Ward Robinson leading in the Merkl Gully on Nanga Parbat. The storm that nearly killed us was apparent in every photo taken on the fifth day but none of us recognized it for what it was at the time, or we were way too invested in our effort to take heed. We should have started down long before the avalanches began because the terrain trap we climbed ourselves into was vicious indeed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4c534448-b7ff-498c-bcac-4c87af514a0a/Weigand_Santaquin_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action Late-90s: I was in Santaquin Canyon, Utah with Geoff Weigand and Tiffany Levine to shoot some pictures. Geoff had been working on a route he named “Drinking Gasoline” and he thought he could send it for the camera that day. He was in a period when he wouldn’t rate the first ascents he made, so I still have no clue how hard the climb was. mid-5.13 maybe. Anyway, I shot this on a warm-up route while we waited for the sun to heat the air enough for him to get on the real thing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/0ebbd1de-4dd0-4971-9437-766f27e0d4a3/1.Blitz.House.Bradley+copy-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action March 1998: Jonny Blitz and Steve House on the south face of Mount Bradley in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska. Days were short and frigid in base camp but warmer on the south facing wall. Over a three day weather window we made the first ascent of "The Gift (That Keeps on Giving)", which was a fairly hard route. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f06aa9c7-fdb1-4efb-b6f7-83516377cdc8/3.House_Gift_thin-ice+copy-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action March 1998: Steve House leading the 11th pitch of "The Gift (That Keeps on Giving)" on Mount Bradley ... warm enough in the sun that the ice was gone the following day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/fa5340ce-e7dc-47ab-960e-5645161cb8b2/Ace+and+Hwlicopter+Moskvina+BC-Edit-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1990: Ace Kvale sheltering from the rotor wash at the Moskvina Glacier base camp in the Paris, Tajikistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/60670bdc-9964-4d34-8d64-9e7a241077ee/Alison+Jeff+Tom+Kangtega+2-Edit-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1986: It feels terrible to be the last one standing from this expedition to Nepal in 1986. Alison Hargreaves (left) died on K2 in 1995, and oddly, Jeff Lowe (center) and Tom Frost (right) died the same day, August 24th, 2018. I often believe that my sadness is linked to death. Many deaths. But one of my witchy friends said, "You have always been sad. Before your first friend died you were sad. You carry it still within you." This picture makes me think of life lost and life missed. I feel sad, but also a strong sense of pride, joy, overwhelmed and grateful to have experienced all that we did together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2abf8865-a293-401a-b0f9-672206327263/Antarctics+Iceberg+Climber-Edit-2-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action February 1997: Kevin Sweigert floating off the Antarctic Peninsula. There's an essay in "Kiss or Kill" about this trip, which wasn't easy but was terrifying, and also really good. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/88d45a12-2495-4bf6-8abf-8f3811667e33/Backes.4thRockband.Hunter-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 1994: Scott Backes racing the sunset in the fourth rock band on the north buttress of Mount Hunter. We had hoped to find a ledge to bivouac on above the rocks but steep ice said "no" so we climbed through the night, eventually stopping on top of the buttress as the sun rose. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4465b06d-e9fb-4f20-ad6c-03eb4abdc549/Barry+NE+Face+above+North+Col+2-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action October 1988: Barry Blanchard high on the north face of the northeast ridge of Everest. We climbed above 8000m on this attempt before Barry was overcome by cerebral edema. Only decisive action, injectable steroids and a bottle of oxygen we swiped from a team at the North Col saved his life. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ffca1ec1-8c6c-4d0b-b5e1-0d643776b412/Below_Serac_RB.1-Edit-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action February 1988: Some people used to ask if "Reality Bath" was really that dangerous and I'd say that a picture tells all and show them this. It's no wonder the route was not repeated until 37 years later. Randy Rackliff getting the full dose. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a4214f57-d6f4-43db-8d1b-fab3c76b5eb9/c2+andy-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1992: Andy Parkin following the 8th pitch of "Beyond Good and Evil" on the north face of the Aiguille des Pelerins, Chamonix. All told, I made three attempts and Andy two over a two-year period before we finally climbed it. Now it's quite a classic, a test-piece for anyone who calls themselves an alpinist. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/1fccbab1-ee22-432f-b565-eb89c5b8b3c9/Jeff+Lowe+on+Nuptse+with+Camera-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 1986: Jeff Lowe on the south pillar of Nuptse. We tried real hard on two different trips to climb it and made these attempts in pure alpine style. Later some folks (Enrico Rosso among them) made good attempts that respected the style we originally used. Others fixed ropes but still failed, drilled bolts and also failed ... eventually it was climbed in a "hybrid style" with ropes fixed for the first 5000' of technical climbing and then a three day push above the ropes to reach the east summit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c34c3430-c018-4ce4-a2f4-8a4358f244b0/Jeff_Lowe_Bonatti_1-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action July 1985: It was too hot to climb ice in the Alps that summer so Jeff Lowe convinced me to try the Bonatti-Ghigo route on the East Face of the Grand Capucin. He freed every pitch (5.12a) and I spent my only unplanned night out on a route: he got to sit on the rope while I put my feet in the pack. It was a long night spent one pitch below the summit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f8b59190-bfcb-4d33-81b4-eef1d5cca1bf/MFT+Serac+Zermatt+1990-91-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action December 1989: Soloing for the camera and an ad campaign for Asolo boots. As contrived as most advertising photo shoots are, especially in the climbing world, Mark Shapiro captured some amazing images that day above Zermatt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b2fce961-dcaf-4c4d-97bd-b259c393726e/MFT_Bivouac_Deprivation-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action May 1994: Having slept with my clothes on I was ready to go once out of the too-thin sleeping bag. Starting day two (that lasted 43 hours) on the north buttress of Mount Hunter during the first ascent of "Deprivation", with Scott Backes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/dae26daf-ec0b-4b53-b325-634466f3a51a/MFT_Cosmiques_winter-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action December 1988: On the Arete des Cosmiques, which can be quite trying in the wrong conditions. Anne Smith and I went up to climb something else but there was simply too much snow. To prove it to ourselves we climbed back to the cable car instead of hiking around. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/32d5a87a-c612-44cf-90ca-aab77bb20436/MFT_Everest_gully-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action October 1988: Barry Blanchard high on Everest just before the tunnel vision closed in and he felt "like iron spikes are being driven into my head." We were moving well, just 23 or 24 hours in, but it all went bad in the blink of an eye. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e4e408e3-b8f2-48ce-8900-2402d0ced301/S.Barry.Ward.Welzenbach-serac-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action August 1988: Barry Blanchard and Ward Robinson near 22,000' at the top of the Welzenbach Couloir, on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, Pakistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/786e2f59-55a8-4ed8-b106-934b427feb77/Scott+Charmoz+Rappel+1+copy-Edit-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action October 1993: Scott Backes retreating from the west face of the Grands Charmoz. The weather was unsettled but we tried anyway, climbing the first three pitches of a route we eventually climbed and named, "Birthright". This day we fled because the spindrift was out of control but a week later conditions came good and we got through. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b09ce53a-15d8-4338-b740-a65f66fe92a9/T3+4-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1986: Alison Hargreaves during the first ascent of the northwest ridge of Kangtega (6799m). In the company of Jeff Lowe and Tom Frost, Alison and I climbed the main summit in a ten-day alpine style effort. Jeff and Tom tagged the unclimbed west summit. She never touched that fixed rope either. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/34191c0e-554a-4939-9200-98ec9d77afe0/Tchouky.Icicle+Rappel-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action January 1991: Michel Fauquet rappelling from a natural ice feature on the south face of Khan Tengri, Tien Shan range, Kazhakstan. We have no idea how this icicle got here .... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/8a3554e3-b733-4c77-9c3c-3ebd22f885e3/Z.Kevin_Merkl_Rappel+copy-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action August 1988: Kevin Doyle descending into the avalanche scoured Merkl Gully at 25,100' on Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, Pakistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/0a7db906-beb3-45f8-b2b6-54d2da8632b5/MFT_Telemark_Crash-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action 1985 or 1986: I used to telemark. In fact, I was one of those “Epoke 900 / Heel Locator” guys hanging around the Early Winters crew in Seattle in the early-80s (though I quickly graduated to Karhu Titans and Fabiano boots with a fabulous buckle across the forefoot. I skied on telemark gear for 20 years, except for getting around the mountains in climbing boots, which, in the Alps is a requirement. The best kit for that was a pair of 130cm Kastle Firns with old Petzl ULM bindings. When I moved to the Wasatch I quickly realized that a Dynafit set-up was WAY lighter than any telemark gear I owned and far more efficient so I made the switch and ever looked back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e6c59ff2-6b0f-4f6e-a649-c022b9073344/Tom+Frost+on+Kangtega+with+Rope+1-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action April 1986: Tom Frost on the northwest ridge of Kangtega. He was a big influence on my path of photography, his images from Yosemite were very strong and watching him work during this expedition instilled in me that I must always have a camera with me because he did. And those Contax cameras with Zeiss glass are one of the reasons I often shoot Zeiss lenses today. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ac49e314-6f6b-4ba8-b521-cbded293a81e/Tom+Frost%27s+note+.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Action December 2001: Tom Frost wrote this letter after seeing a couple of the first Style Matters advertisements we ran to support Grivel North America. I thought it important to call out the best routes done in the purest style if only to educate the newcomers but also to preserve some of climbs that might otherwise have been forgotten. https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-image/project-two-ky966-cap2n monthly 0.5 2024-09-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4ae4a349-1bb2-4ad4-8dd0-76ada8a2d421/Andrew_Whiskey_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 1998: Andrew Bielecki below Quandary Peak, Colorado after a wonderful spring ski tour. “Just a quick nip after ski touring to make the Sunday evening drive down I-70 a little easier to handle ... and it'll help me recover, right?” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ba47fa4c-72c0-4e15-a51c-f2ad368fbf50/Asselin_Grassi_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People February 1987: Jean-Michel Asselin (left) and Gian-Carlo Grassi discussing the day at the Premieres Journees de Glace in Gavarnie in the Pyrenees. It was the first ice climbing festival, and quite a success. A lot of heavy hitters turned up: Grassi, Renault, Noel-Roche, Bohigas and Lucas (who gave a slideshow about their new route on the south face of Annapurna), etc. Amazing. And a long drive from Chamonix. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/49ade71f-ab47-4b42-b86e-ce19dae06bf4/Bubendorfer_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 1990: Thomas Bubendorfer at the Moskvina Glacier base camp below Peak Communism. He was on his way out when we arrived that summer. Thomas set a speed record on the north face Eiger in 1983 that was not bettered for 20 years: 4hrs 50min. A week prior he and Peter Rohrmoser climbed the face in 10 hours, belaying only 12 pitches while soloing the rest. Day-climbing on the Eiger, without a pack was unheard of in 1983 ... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/72f7993b-73e0-45b1-8658-5e641aff4c8b/Backes_Mascioli_Snowcave_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People May 1994: Scott Backes and Steve Mascioli in a snowcave on the Kahiltna Glacier. We were waiting out the weather. Storm after storm kept us off the North Buttress of Mount Hunter. All of us waiting: Joe Josephson, Michael Kennedy, Greg Child, Ken Wiley ... a strong group of suitors for some of the finest lines on the planet. Steve was killed by a falling snow mushroom on the North Buttress 6/6/97. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/89ef7de4-4a9c-418a-a390-78e5ebc1f977/BACKES_Post_CZD_1233_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 2000: Scott Backes in the ranger's Weatherport at 14k on Denali. We walked into camp after 63 hours on the go, having made the 3rd ascent of the Slovak Direct in a single push. In moments that paper plate will be covered with a giant, toasted Spam and cheese sandwich. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a9cffd78-a9dc-477f-bf38-3d265760bd3f/Barry_Everest_BC_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People October 1988: Barry Blanchard in the “parking” camp on the north side of Everest where one may drive a truck to 15,800’. This was between attempts and the night before in the Wyoming Cowboys base camp featured beer (they were sponsored by Coors) and electric clippers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/51557a5e-72a9-44c6-847a-b0c0e45f191e/Domenech_Julien_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People February 1987: Bernard Domenech and Dominique Julien during the Premieres Journees de Glace at Gavarnie in the Pyrenees. Bernard was a supporter and friend who kept records of ascents all over the world for the Groupe de la Haute Montagne. Dominique organized the first ice festival and climbed the hardest routes of the era in Gavarnie (“Thanatos” and “Overdose”), both grade 6. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/aa5ee5e7-71c6-448c-ba21-a914a1adc630/Donard_MFT_Lamotte_Hellinger_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People August 1992: Thierry Donard, myself, Francois Lamotte, and Joachim Hellenger on the way to Las Lenas. We were shooting segments of “Pushing the Limits” in Bolivia when skydiving cameraman Francois Rickard was killed. Fights ensued, the lead actor was fired, the producers insisted we continue, and despite the loss we did. The picture was shot in the Buenos Aires airport the day we left Bolivia. Francois’s body had not yet been recovered and none of us were sure of what we were doing. I barely remember the next three weeks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/db84337c-1c57-4da0-afea-668b7b3e28b2/Carter.2_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 2006: Mark Carter in the Tetons. I considered him one of my best military students: he understood and lived the "Light Is Right" ideal. He was killed in Iraq 12/11/07. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/94fa62ad-8eb8-4752-9db7-48feebfd0e74/IMG_4622_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 2006: Bean Bowers, who was helping Rolo Garibotti and I with a military job in the Tetons. I always loved Bean’s enthusiasm and his sense of indestructability. He had come through some epic adventures. Sadly, and to our loss, he wasn’t invincible. Bean died after a short battle with a rapidly metastasizing cancer on July 11th, 2011. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/932ddd18-2205-4ce0-af18-c550c377bebd/IMG_4762_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 2006: Mark Carter and Bean Bowers in the Tetons. This block of training was outstanding, much of the cold weather improvisation and “light is right” teaching was later put to good use overseas. Sadly, Mark was killed a little over a year later, and Bean died four years after that. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f9d8b05e-3ff5-4d57-b5a1-3aab8d0d2a53/Beaudoin_Relax_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People April 1997: Christophe Beaudoin in Chamonix. We did some good climbs together in the early-90s. We accidentally discovered “Beyond Good and Evil” before Andy Parkin and I tried it. We did the lower part of the Gabarrou-Silvy finishing via the ice route Francois Marsigny climbed after Philippe Mohr fell to his death, which was when I discovered “There Goes the Neighborhood.” He was a good partner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/38c34ddd-34c0-4cc5-b224-abf2f820438c/Beilecki_Wine_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Late 90s: Andrew Bielecki in Frisco, CO after a day on Quandary Peak. For a period of two years I earned my living shooting pictures. The work was published in magazines and for advertising. Andrew was one of my favorite subjects. He could do any sport, hammed it up for the lens, and had his own wild projects, like an annual snowshoe race in Great Sand Dune National Monument (until the NPS shut it down). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9499a07a-b571-47d1-a4f0-bc93001cab58/Blitz_Relax_Index_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Summer 1985: Jonny Blitz on the tracks below the Index Lower Town Wall, where most of us either learned to climb or became climbers. Blitz was part of a crew that included Jon Nelson and Russell Erickson who left a mark on the area. They loved punk rock and rock climbing, and epic rope swings were popular with Russell in particular. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/18702ef8-4451-4ebc-b8a0-d6132cdd0add/Bouchard_Meat_Room_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 1987: During this period I worked at Wild Things in North Conway, New Hampshire. John Bouchard mentored me through some tough times and decisions, introduced me to paragliding and got me motivated to go back to the Himalayas. His eye for design was sharp, and his design genius unparalleled. I wanted to actually test the Altitude Suit in the meat locker – it being summer and all – but the butchers wouldn’t let us so we snapped a few pics and went on our way. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e0114ed5-ee4a-4828-9fdc-9875e79ef159/Brian_Burn_Trophy_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People After midnight 1/1/99: Brian Enos outside his old place in Apache Junction during the annual trophy burning ceremony. Brian isn’t attached to the things that represent experience. The experience itself and the memory of it are all that matter. Each year he cleansed himself by burning the year’s awards; plaques, trophies, certificates were all torched freeing him to begin the New Year fresh. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e3d76085-eea9-4f98-a7b5-3a9e526c5982/Brian_Superstitions_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People January 1999: Brian Enos on Superstition Mountain. Our friend Bjorn was also along for the hike. The ankle-breaking terrain shocked me. I didn’t think the desert was so rugged, or that plants could be so sharp and hard, hearty. I could see how the desert might get into a man, deep enough to change him. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/bce6af62-9786-455f-b54a-a9cedebb17cf/Carol_Coffee_Tuolumne_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 1990: Carol Davidson in Tuolumne. I crashed her honeymoon since she married my friend Jonathan, and I rarely saw either of them during that era. When I first met her I hadn’t yet found my path or voice. Carol has been constant at every step of my life. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/56cee45a-818f-42ce-816a-d4d52a33cdc4/DSC_9957_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People November 2013: George after a good run on the first shooting station of the day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/97c8c800-da37-480c-892b-5e412d123400/DSC02689_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People January 2015: Steve House relaxed. Not up against it. Not burnt out from having been awake and climbing for days. Not pushing any limits. Relax and breathe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7299a36c-6557-4867-bb74-1f80add5b809/DSC03483_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People March 2015: The train passes Brian’s house. If they are up and partying they always step out to greet the conductor. Petey and Garn soft-focused. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/cbe3c1cc-884d-4ad9-b4bb-5de3c6a88b1c/DSC04408-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 2015: Michael Joseph Gross, relentless interviewer, tireless wordsmith, and dear friend in Buckhead, GA. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4dd81c9f-f774-422a-9ee9-fc4dc7909e36/Ed_Pope_Condoriri_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 1995: Ed Pope on Condoriri in Bolivia. Ed approached me as a client and turned into a good friend. We climbed a few small routes in Chamonix to get to know each other then climbed a new route “Money is Not Our God” on the west face of Peak 5886 in Nepal. Ed topped the 19,300’ peak ten days after leaving Milwaukee in an awe-inspiring expression of determination. Sadly, Ed passed away in 2024. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9382c3e5-2928-431d-8fb4-6c8387d5ebb2/DSC05675_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 2015: On the Missionary Ridge trail. Durango seemed like a good place at the time, if unaffordable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/8266d118-288c-4ec8-a26c-3710efb5b7ab/Fiona_Eagle_PTL_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Summer 1993: Fiona Gelin with a trained Golden Eagle above Chamonix. The eagle symbolized freedom in “Pushing the Limits” and in this scene it was set free by Fiona, who was more or less the muse of the story. The eagle was amazing, trained to the glove like a hawk, its owner (if one could accurately call him such) could call the eagle to his wrist using a lure though the eagle was flying over a mile away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b44578d3-9a02-4715-8dc6-8d705d666cdf/Hampsten_Gavia_Poster_W_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 1988: is when the photo was shot during the Giro d’Italia. Andy Hampsten is riding into cycling legend. He was prepared. His team was prepared and although he didn't win the stage he took over the race lead and held onto it to win the Giro. La Gazzetta dello Sport called the stage "The Day the Big Men Cried." And the hard men prevailed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7c05ac40-2f19-4990-805c-cc92f3fe3c61/House_FlipPancake_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Steve House flipping pancakes at our camp on the Ruth Glacier in March 1998. The thermometer broke early on the trip but it was just as well since the nightly readings were registering near -30 and we were cowering beneath two sleeping bags each. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/40c9d525-3c13-4677-a9f3-c5953e5ddc47/IMG_0037_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People August 2013: Ben Saunders in the Stonor Valley near Henley. He agreed to a big ride even though it would cost some of the calories he was trying to pack on prior to skiing unsupported to the South Pole (with Tarka L'Herpiniere). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/945986d8-7c4b-455c-ac7f-751d95d796f0/IMG_0086_H_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People August 2010: with Scott Backes and Steve House ten years after our ascent of the Slovak Direct. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/df4dd616-24c8-4462-ac3c-f4d8aacc53e4/IMG_0189_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People October 2013: With Guglielmo Rossi on the Amalfi Coast. I was in Italy on a movie job and Andy Hampsten linked me up with Guglielmo as a local guide. We did some great rides, and the experience reminded me of how small the world is, and how united by sporting passion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c13b516f-39ee-412b-a7aa-d89685fb094b/IMG_0237-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 2009: flying in to Kahiltna base camp https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a176ed81-d214-48f1-93c5-c19c33b34dd2/IMG_0323-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 2009: Marko Prezelj at Kahiltna base camp https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/993ade5d-9f11-4a2e-b340-758ea7ea5194/IMG_0488-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 2009: Rolo waiting out the storm at 14k n the West Buttress of Denali. It cleared enough to flee toward base camp the following day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e958ca80-f4b0-4739-b203-6ae45c75f76d/IMG_0630_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 2008: He described it as, "the hardest day of my life" so I reminded him he was only halfway through it. Rob Reeves looking at the summit of Denali. He was killed in 2011 when the Extortion 17 helicopter was shot down in Afghanistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/771b2de0-2db3-4df7-8f2e-c4fbfc5d18b7/IMG_0715-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 2008: Heath Robinson pushing through weather and pain on the "Football Field" below the summit of Denali. He was killed in 2011 when the Extortion 17 helicopter was shot down in Afghanistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/bfc689a3-83f3-4fc7-aa57-8e82672925c9/IMG_0859_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People November 2013: with Bertrand Delapierre (on the camera), Michel Paccalet (boom), and Francois Damilano during the making of a short documentary about “Beyond Good And Evil”, a new route I climbed with Andy Parkin in 1992. Damilano and Francois Marsigny made the second ascent three years later, and the route has become a test-piece for all aspiring alpinists. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9713e353-8a1e-4d5e-82a5-4c491f3533a9/IMG_1635_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People October 2010: Ben Saunders, who has twice skied to the North Pole on the namesake road in Kent. I had one day off after teaching a seminar and knew Ben via the Internet. He linked us up with Yanto Barker, Darren Moore and Mark Lloyd for a nice ride (on a rented bike) into the English countryside for coffee and cakes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e8c8f3c5-97a2-4a85-bc0c-b4d9818579d8/IMG_2066_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 2008: Somewhere on the West Buttress of Denali https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/80f82736-2ce2-4c46-b11f-af3a7e386a07/IMG_3330_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 2012: with Lieutenant Colonel Scott Pierce who was the CO of the Marine Combat Training Battalion at Camp Pendleton at the time. He invited me to give the keynote speech at the Dining In. I flew from Paris, gave my presentation, turned and burned back to the continent, landing in Bulgaria for the “300: Rise of an Empire” movie project. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b9e836fd-5e23-4f23-8251-49322a042bab/IMG_5770_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 2013: Speaking at a fund-raiser for the Little Warriors Foundation at the NY Distilling Co. in Brooklyn, NY. This is a fine, “nonprofit organization dedicated to providing outdoor adventure to the children of Fallen Navy SEALs and Naval Special Warfare Personnel.” I am happy to be a part of it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a21128b7-8565-490a-a363-c25324b9af7e/IMG_5772_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 2013: Speaking at the NY Distilling Co. in Brooklyn, NY while distracted by barrels of bourbon. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7b58477b-6ab5-4c9d-b770-d66e9c9f1b8c/img029_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 1988: Snack break during the drive from Chengdu to Everest base camp. Looks like hard boiled eggs, dry bread, and cottonmouth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/58fe553a-14ec-4073-b1b3-560f981e7527/img031_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 1988: Below the north side of Everest. Escoffier model Julbo sunglasses and the original “Never Quit” ball cap, which I believe I made using a Sharpie in Nanga Parbat base camp earlier that season. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9090040e-f192-43fa-a169-3fc5350c0536/img044_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1996: Scott Backes taking a personal hygiene day at our camp below Pico del Norte, Bolivia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/bd916a8a-e10b-4bdf-9af8-81298ef4bea2/img046-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 1996: Scott Backes, tent-bound, Bolivia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7bfe84e5-fa6f-44c6-b3eb-57ebac49bdd9/img049-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1996: Scott Backes enjoying the centennial celebrations in La Paz 48 hours after topping out on Pico del Norte. The city is at high altitude, and so were we. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b66e600a-ac77-45fb-b772-7b0646afff30/img051_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 1987: John Bouchard (in the driver’s seat), Jimmy Surette, Scott Franklin, myself and Randy Rackcliff, aka the Wild Things Climbing Team. I have no idea how the grappling hook got in the picture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/06d25018-8c85-47f7-9e8e-7bac4d5407d1/img052_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Scott Backes above Lake Powell. He and I and Jay Smith were in charge of “mountain safety” on a Mitsubishi commercial being shot by Zack Snyder. We drilled some bolts, hung a porta-ledge, broke it, introduced an actor to exposure and how to ascend fixed ropes, and did some incredible trundling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/6b245038-e926-4ef7-b815-111a9f8d3445/img054_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Late-90s: Scottie Ewing getting a little tune-up in Crested Butte, CO. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/70724d4c-1fdc-4036-9a94-61d5ff821844/img053_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June or July 1994: Chris Grover (cropped), Brian Mecham, myself, Geoff Weigand, Bill Belcourt and David Feinberg at Maria Cranor’s house in Salt Lake City. Shortly thereafter, Maria stood up as my “Best Person” when I married Cathy Beloeil. Later a few of these guys made a bet on how long it would last and Grover’s prediction proved most accurate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/af88bde7-efb5-4a1a-8774-af30f4e220b0/img060_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1995: Somewhere in Bolivia, weeks out from my last shower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7100819f-9d79-406c-a483-296e268a15b2/img066_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1996: On an acclimatization hike in Bolivia. We climbed over a saddle to check out Ancohuma for new route potential but didn't like how dry the face was. A huge storm changed that but we ran out of time and settled for a shorter, steeper line on Pico del Norte. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9250c989-78db-43de-a1b4-e4647f01202a/img067.tif+_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People October 1988: At Everest base camp in Tibet. It was the morning after an incredible party thrown by the “Cowboys on Everest” team. Too drunk to know better, someone broke out the electric clippers and a variety of haircuts were volunteered for and given. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c2cd38a7-bd6c-4775-9547-64e094b798b1/img068_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Late-90s: I believe this is at the Provo Gun Club and my first experience shooting a fully-tuned .38 Super race gun. I settled on shooting stock guns instead, with an STI .40 hi-cap that Brian Enos helped me build. I down-sized the tech again since I wanted to shoot what I carried and only shot single stack .45s for a while. My last year of competition I shot Minor power factor with a 9x23 single stack 1911 well enough to win the Utah State Championship in my class. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c474f907-cd80-48a3-b22a-929dd81261fb/img069_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1990: At the Moskvina Glacier base camp below Peak Communism (so-named at the time). When this appeared in Mountain Magazine a friend quipped, “Damn, you look like you just came down from the trees.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/756d7c3c-c499-4b1d-a661-117e80e882e3/img074_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 1994: Scott Backes and I had been moving for 39 hours straight when Michael Kennedy, Greg Child, Joe Josephson and Ken Wiley met us below the west ridge of Mount Hunter. They recovered our skis from below the north buttress so we didn’t have to walk the miles back to Kahiltna base camp, post-holing in the deep snow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e605d8aa-6528-4ddf-a3f8-fad831b84fc2/img075_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 1988: Tibet. More prayer flags than I had ever seen. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/f3648649-1e1d-4669-9a17-7b954144c61d/Kevin_Doyle_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1988: Kevin Doyle in our base camp below Nanga Parbat. From “I Hurt Therefore I Am”: Some people chase pain harder than others, consciously or subconsciously. Some use it to inflate their sense of self-importance. Others test their will by working through it. Each of us has a threshold someplace short of serious harm. Kevin's different. His definition of pain is more highly evolved than ours. He's willing to hurt himself permanently to get what he wants. In a conversation about calories he told me that there is always something left to burn, “even if it's brain matter.” Kevin is, without question, the best I've ever seen. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3862e158-8074-47f4-9307-91ef9b2427ce/img086_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People February 1987: I stopped in Chamonix on the way back from a winter attempt on the south pillar of Nuptse. The staff at Vertical Magazine suggested I attend the first ever ice climbing festival, the “Premieres Journées de Glaces” in the Cirque de Gavarnie. It was one of the coolest experiences I have ever had. I rode with Jean-Noel Roche, his son Zebulon, Xavier Murillo in a full-size Toyota Land Cruiser. The event was crazy, wet, too warm for ice climbing but our energy was too high to be denied. When the Press asked me if soloing was too risky (I’d run up a WI5 and down-climbed a WI4) I replied as usual … “Not for me.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c4ecfbd1-cea1-4dab-96ad-5e4714c4eeb8/img158_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 1991: during the filming of one of the pilots for Pushing The Limits, I believe we are on the Glacier de Trient. Left-to-right: Michel Fauquet (safety), Dominique GLeizes (who had just base jumped from the Clocher du Portalet), Bruno de Champris (editor and first A.D.), two pilots from Air Glaciers in Sion, Switzerland, Bjorn Anderson (production assistant and muscle), and myself with an enormous video camera I was using to shoot a documentary about the making of such action films. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/363196a9-8043-4839-a6ff-dc386eb04cac/img097-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People October 1988: We picked up Susan in Everest base camp and gave her a ride back to Chengdu. On the way one of the truck drivers stuffed our ride into the ditch. There ensued quite the comedy to retrieve it. During our wait Susan showed the locals the tool we use to capture someone’s soul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9b996046-8bef-4b40-a182-10d8e488325e/img129_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Brian Enos below Superstition Mountain east of Phoenix. It was surprisingly rugged terrain, and a remarkable view from the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c46633ca-f115-4755-b7be-2cdf0592d3aa/img081_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 1994, or maybe 1995 based on the Nikon F3 with a fixed 24mm lens, probably in southern Utah. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/45cac9a5-f3e6-4dff-8db5-58f27c1fcb55/img131_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 1998: Scott Backes makes the morning brew in Vedauwoo, Wyoming. I’d always heard of the place, and feared its reputation for sharp crystals and wide cracks. The terrain lived up to the hype, and we got what we needed there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/134371d3-b120-416a-b356-6b2abe19860b/img136_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 2000: at the 14,000’ camp on the west buttress of Denali where a Nova video crew pounced on us and acted as if we should be excited to answer questions about footwear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/80ee8379-6e2c-4066-8bf3-0bf04596854d/img137_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People May 1994: Steve Mascioli (in the tent), Joe Josephson and Scott Backes scoping the north buttress of Mount Hunter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e18bb382-5147-44d7-9af6-c4164049cc03/img139_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 2000: Steve House and Scott Backes on the first icefield of the Slovak Direct. We’d been climbing for about eight hours when we found a tent platform chopped by Kevin Mahoney and Ben Gilmore. It was free real estate so we stopped to brew up while the sun kept us warm. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/cfe141cb-4dbf-4c1a-8bd8-8b46ca0ec8fa/img190_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1990: at the Moskvina Glacier base camp in the Pamirs with the lower slopes of Pic Communism in the background. We were out of time – and I was well-done – so flying out to Jirgital and driving to Dushanbe before leaving the area. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a333e40c-4846-4b73-b206-95c85772c30a/Krakauer_Pensive_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 1984: Jon Krakauer considers our retreat from the north face of the Eiger, an epic he skillfully described for Outside Magazine. We sat out three weeks of the wettest September since 1864 hoping the weather would improve. Eventually, we got on the route but snow conditions convinced us to descend from the base of the Second Icefield. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/8f61c73f-5cb9-4d1a-b33d-93c7660db86b/Lisa_Karl-H_Zuma_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People December 1997: My wife Lisa with Karl Honhold and our Akita Zuma before the start of the US Cyclocross Championships, which were held in Colorado that year. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/09f3982b-43f0-4920-a866-59d0393ec049/LIsaZuma_High5_Boulder_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Late-90s: When Zuma was just a pup one of Lisa’s friends taught her how to High-5 and it always gave me the biggest smile when she did it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/10d86876-a046-45f9-8895-efc6836899db/Marile_Anne_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Summer 1989: Marile Walch and Anne Smith at the old Albert Premiere refuge above Le Tour. The next day we ran up the Eperon Migot on the north face of the Aiguille du Chardonnet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/bc3a974f-bd97-4615-bc45-3d37c9bd97d5/MFT_ABC_1206_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 1991: ABC television sent a crew to Chamonix to film me soloing the Frendo Spur on the Aiguille du Midi. It was a modern production at the time. I wore a lipstick camera on my helmet and a microwave transmitter in my pack, David Breashears had one on an extendable baton, and the images were beamed down to recorders at the Plan de l’Aiguille. Peter Pilifian shot the wide and more detailed images with a full-size video camera. The show eventually aired under the title, “The Extreme Edge” and it was fairly entertaining. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7d43ef4c-687c-4207-882e-28561615a841/MFT_ABC_2207_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 1991: During filming for ABC’s short-lived show, “The Extreme Edge.” The show’s director – whose name escapes me – is at the left and in front of him the man who captured the microwave transmissions transmitted from the multiple cameras used during to cover the climb. Marie Hiroz who recorded audio is next to me, and cameraman Peter Pilafian next to her. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a40ed8c1-e909-4118-8f69-9464af068e06/MFT_Alan_Shroud_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People August 1985: Alan Bradley and I hiked up to the Leschaux Hut and tried to climb The Shroud. We started up too early, before it froze so we cowered under a sheltering rock for a while to see if temperatures improved. They didn’t and we scurried away. A few days later Alan soloed the north face of the Requin, saw God, and headed for home. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3a530ccf-868e-43ed-95da-2fc05bfdde22/MFT_PTL_1219_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Summer 1992: In the Condoriri massif in Bolivia when we were shooting the feature version of “Pushing The Limits”. Francois Rickard had drowned. The lead actor had been fired and sent home. The director did some camera tests with me and producers in France approved so I was drafted to act … it was quite a trip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a52a5d61-697a-4061-8ec6-8412b112c28d/MFT_Spartan_Ideal_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1996: In base camp below Pico del Norte. I started the trip to Bolivia fit and lean, ran/walked a marathon chasing thieves who stole from our base camp, did some acclimatization routes, then got stomach sick for a week in La Paz, and finally hiked for a couple of days back into the mountains. I was down to around 3% body fat and still recovering well, which taught me what was possible regarding power-to-weight ratio and that served me well a couple of years later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a3c66b67-0481-4192-9daa-871f236fb7af/Parkin_Bivy_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People April 1992: Andy Parkin on a little bivvy ledge atop the 8th pitch during the first ascent of “Beyond Good and Evil” on the north face of the Aiguille des Pelerins, Chamonix. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2103fe2a-021e-4b3d-9c45-07a555b2d6ab/Phillipe_Argentiere_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1989: Philippe Mohr cracking a beer at the Argentiere Hut. The next day we climbed the north face of the Col de la Verte to check out potential mixed lines on the northwest face of Les Droites and rehearse the descent route. I put this reconnaissance to good use a year later when Barry Blanchard and I made the first ascent of the “Richard Cranium Memorial” and had to descend in the dark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/82aa74ea-1925-41ff-9dac-4dc24df3cf03/Rolo_Liberty_Bell_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People May 2000: Rolando Garibotti near Washington Pass in the North Cascades. We were working on a Chevy commercial with Zack Snyder (who later directed “300”). The crew helicoptered an 80-foot crane up to film us climbing and falling. Later the pilot held one skid of his Long Ranger against the summit of South Early Winter Spire long enough for us to get out (and back in) to get the summit shot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b67751ec-5f26-4cbb-83af-c4e254ed28ae/Scott_Bolivia_Trip_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1996: Scott Backes in La Paz. We descended from “Fuck ‘Em, They’re All Posers Anyway”, hiked out, drove from Sorata, showered, changed our outlook and joined a celebration commemorating the founding of the city. We attended a fashion show that night then I hopped a plane to Utah where I was taken from the airport to a Buzzcocks reunion concert, and shot an IPSC match the next day. A fulfilling week. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a6b7547b-2768-4f09-b892-0b903c8083bf/Scott_Colin_Alex_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People May 1995: Scott Backes, Colin Grissom and Alex Lowe in the Park Service Weatherport at 14,000’ on the west buttress of Denali. Scott, Colin, and I were volunteering, to help rescue climbers if need be. Alex had just joined us for a dash up the Upper West Rib. I recall the roundtrip taking about ten hours, and it was cold. A week later Scott, Alex and I were flown to 19,500’ in a Chinook and descended to 19,300’ on the Rib to rescue a pair of Spaniards who had been trapped for several days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a653112f-8b30-48b6-a5ac-80882eeb115a/Scott_Eiger_Cafe_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People March 1996: Scott Backes below the Eiger during one of the biggest cluster-fucks of my career. Kevin Cooney and I wanted to climb the north faces of the Eiger, Matterhorn and Jorasses in winter using bikes and skis to travel between them. Short on cash, we accepted that a film crew tag along. Conditions were bad, flexibility limited, and relationship with the production company terrible. The only bright lights for us were Scott (hired as the climbing cameraman), and Tad Linn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a4e9fdec-0185-4508-9b81-cccf1b53f856/Stoddard_Mooses_Tooth_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People April 1985: John Stoddard below the 8th pitch of the Ham and Eggs couloir on the Moose’s Tooth in the Ruth Gorge. He’d just been hit in the face with a rock. We couldn’t tell how bad it was but decided to bail in case something was broken. We spent five days near the Mountain House before deeming the injury healed enough to attempt the Colton-Leach route on the Rooster Comb. There, we climbed 16 pitches, bivouacked, then John broke his ankle in an fall from the 17th (A2) pitch. The retreat was epic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/7c8d4685-c253-4ecd-8242-749514583455/Scott_Steve_Nap.2_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 2000: Scott Backes and Steve House napping on the deck at Talkeetna Air Taxi after we flew out of the Alaska Range. We were all pretty wasted from having dug so deep on the Slovak Direct and we became opportunistic nappers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/cfb0f0fb-8204-4b43-a9c7-b02ba8c31e0b/Stoddard_PolarCircus_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People February 1985: John Stoddard at the top of Polar Circus in the Canadian Rockies. We climbed it with Monte Westlund in seven hours, despite the thermometer at the Rampart Creek Hostel reading –42 degrees C when we got in the car (which actually started) to drive to the route. It was an incredible day, and my first big ice route in the area. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/94191d64-bba0-405d-ab66-14c026b87df8/Tophe.Bivy_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People September 1993: Earlier in the month I tried to solo the Gabarrou-Silvy on the Aiguille Sans Nom, climbed the pillar but then retreated when I realized how much back-roping I would need to do on the upper part of the route. I came back with Christophe Beaudoin (seen here at our bivouac) but got skunked again by thin conditions so he and I finished on the Marsigny-Mohr variation of the Brown-Patey route. Up there we stood for a while where Philippe had fallen, and then marveled at the steepness of the exit Francois soloed afterward before he was evacuated by a helicopter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a8c658fe-545b-43ba-a84a-74a9c82d8c0b/Vince_Breakfast_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Vince Anderson filling the tank at Lily’s Family Restaurant in Anchorage prior to making a six-day strike on the Moose’s Tooth where he and a client made rapid work of the Ham and Eggs couloir, then Shaken, Not Stirred, and visited three of the peak’s four summits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/efc8cbec-ee3a-4789-a3fb-6a352c30f2a4/Ward_Robinson_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1988: Ward Robinson in Karimabad during an acclimatization trip prior to our attempt on Nanga Parbat. We hiked into the Ultar Valley to look at the Boblimotin, aka Lady Finger with no intention of climbing it, and hoped to glimpse the scary-looking Ultar peaks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/bb5a7861-1c53-4acb-b0d3-1bc4abd7143f/Vince_Marko_MFT_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Vince Anderson, Marko Prezelj, Mark Twight. After climbing Denali with some Navy personnel in 2009 we were at the Kahiltna airstrip when we heard that Marko was in base camp with a friend. We only had moments before our air taxi arrived so Vince and I ran up the hill, found him, shared some of his father's splendid honey liquor and then sped back to the waiting plane. Serendipitous and ... well, perfect. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/50c6c90c-dec2-40a9-bb03-a613b80a9614/Wilford.crampons_in_Zodiac_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People February 1997: Mark Wilford in the Iceberg Cemetery, Antarctica. Crampons don’t exactly go with an inflatable boat but neither does ice climbing come to mind when looking at floating icebergs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3facedb4-c6ae-4819-a931-0f0f5ef39ba4/Wilford.Zodiac.BW_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People February 1997: The camera and safety crew running in a storm off the shore of the Antarctic Peninsula. We were down there to shoot a commercial and had remarkably good weather for most of the three week-long visit but when this storm showed its teeth conditions got downright scary. Dry-suit or not, if you go over you are done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/de2c1b9c-76aa-492a-80ba-bd28c38ac69f/Zack_Scott_CarComm_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Late-90s: Typical of Scott Backes: if there is a fence he stands outside of it. Zack Snyder at left, and Kurt Johnstad (on porta-ledge) somewhere in the AZ/UT desert shooting close-ups on a car commercial. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3fcc8a42-2afb-4f29-bc08-97c75a092df4/Backes_Buttress_Sunrise.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People April 1994: Scott Backes watching the sun come over the horizon after climbing through the night during the first ascent of “Deprivation” on the north buttress of Mount Hunter. We stopped for a couple of hours, ate the dinner from the night before, drank and filled out bottles, then continued finally returning to base camp after 43 hours on the go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9e81a392-e8f0-4d76-9ddb-25567391864f/Barry_Bravo_Peak.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Barry Blanchard on Bravo Peak in the Waddington Range. Bubba and I have history. We climbed together. Nearly died together. I saved his life on Everest. He saved mine when we met. He helped me learn to write and vice-versa. He taught me the value of unconditional love, of atonement, and showed me the Way of the Mountains. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/30934d48-88a1-4b1b-837d-3fed814f3104/House_MFT_Cassin.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 2000: Steve House and I about 55 hours into our 60-hour ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali with Scott Backes. We’ve joined the Cassin Ridge and all that’s between us and the top is about 2000 feet of moderate climbing, and of course, the few barriers remaining in our own heads. We have been transformed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/74f8369d-4e5c-4426-9372-c4d91fb7b093/House_Wait_Sun.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People June 2000: Steve House waiting for the sun to warm him into action about 48 hours into our 60-hour ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali with Scott Backes. We took cover from the wind behind this large rock because it was too cold to climb in its teeth. Once the sun rose our jackets were warm enough again and we began moving. Steve said the other day as I gave a slideshow about this, “Those mittens were good.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/788c251f-d9d2-4200-a26f-63b0a7cd76e4/MFT_Alan_Pack_Car.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1985: Alan Bradley and I trying to pack all of our gear into Eric Perlman’s rented Deux Chevaux at 468 Chemin des Cristalliers in Chamonix. I stayed in the house on this street first in 1984. Alan and I helped put a new roof on it in 1985 and visited again in 1986 and 1987. I met some good people. Relationships began and ended there. I returned to its comfort after shattering myself on the mountains above. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c7a082a5-e161-4587-a420-d41f2c496b29/MFT_Hank_EverestBC.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People October 1988: Hank Van Weelden and I in the “parking” camp on the north side of Everest where one may drive a truck to 15,800’. A party the night before in the Wyoming Cowboys base camp featured beer and electric clippers. I had a new mohawk and Hank had the old Grivel logo (a “G” with teeth) shaved into the side of his head. Others faired worse. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2e6de8c1-13ad-43db-98fc-2bcf94dbdf6f/MFT_Powers_Fourche.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Spring 1989: Leaving the snowed-in bivouac hut at the Col de la Fourche with Mike Powers belaying. Ace Kvale came over from Verbier to shoot pictures for a couple of days. At the time none of the French climbing superstars wore helmets. Not wanting to be seen as a beginner, I did the same, and owned a variety of headbands. This hut was destroyed when part of the ridge collapsed in 2022. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9abb1d6c-8216-4bda-bfb5-89d7f71c8731/MFT_Wenham_web.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People March 2007: With David Wenham at a party following the premiere of “300” in Los Angeles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/d6027511-d9cf-4d8f-86c6-5102573faed6/Rolo_CerroTorre_Bivy.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People November 2005: Rolando Garibotti suffering near the summit of Cerro Torre during the first ascent of "El Arca de los Vientos". Rolo has been a friend and inspiration since Lisa and I lived in Boulder. He was on the safety crew when I climbed icebergs for the camera in Antarctica, which actually made me feel safer. And he has helped me prepare a lot of soldiers to move around the mountains efficiently. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2d8c8f82-ad3d-4d35-85d0-6dc66d52db32/Tad_Drying_Meat.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People March 1996: Tad Linn scouting terrain between the Matterhorn and the Eiger during the preparation to link the three great north faces using bikes and skis. Getting from one face to the next wasn’t obvious so we had to rehearse. On this day we began in Blatten, skied up to the Kanderfirn, through a pass separating the Gspaltenhorn from the Breithorn and down into Stechelberg at the head of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. It was so cold and windy Tad suggested it was, “good conditions for drying meat.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/0ead9711-6d0a-4ed6-8580-01759b4de393/Vince_drink.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Febraury 2007: Vince Anderson swilling something “effective” in Chamonix. After the Piolet d’Or ceremony (where Marko refused to accept the award for his new route on Chomolhari) he, Vince and Steve House made a winter ascent of the Walker Spur. The subsequent celebration left an alarm unheard, a plane uncaught, a deadline missed ... this drink may well have been the culprit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4f7795ea-3a02-4b66-90f3-058b90722656/Zoe_Sue.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People May 2006: Zoe hart and Sue Nott at Kahiltna base camp. Sue disappeared on Mount Foraker later in the month. Her energy was so good I felt recharged every time I saw her. The highlight of any trade show was a big hug from Sue. I knew her drive too well because I survived my own so I was nervous when she went away on big trips. But she always came back ... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/d1c53818-8ef0-47ea-b429-2b785f91d28f/Alison_Jeff_Tom_Kangtega.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People April 1986: Day two during the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Kangtega. From left-to-right: Alison Hargreaves, Jeff Lowe (leading) and Tom Frost who had participated in the first ascent of Kangtega, in June 1963. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/1f3d7d63-f625-47ae-9a5f-6774e4a3f7a9/Vince_Idiot.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People August 2007: Vince Anderson carefully composed (by Marko) at base camp in the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/e0d73a93-bd94-4472-86ab-a6488d19e022/Vince_Marko_Steve.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People August 2007: Vince Anderson, Marko Prezelj, and Steve House on the summit of Naser Brakk in the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/5b6f16a1-8fc9-4fd3-9ce7-cf325c828e72/Vince_Skull.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People April 2004: Known Satanist Vince Anderson with a custom ice tool. Click here to see one of Vince’s favorite books: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/wfeature-inspiration-anderson-twight https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/95d1c887-2f1e-4aa5-abca-a8a65aedc67d/Alison_015-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People April 1986: Alison Hargreaves on the summit of Lobuche East after we followed Jeff Lowe and Henry Kendall up the new route they climbed the previous day. This was a fine acclimatization peak for our alpine style ascent of Kangtega, which we began a few days later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/526a5082-0c6f-4773-98a9-4c7a653ba2b8/Alison_025-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People May 1986: Nima Tenzing and Alison Hargreaves at Kangtega base camp after our ten-day alpine style ascent of the northwest ridge. She had frostbitten her toes on the summit day and despite rewarming them on my stomach in the snow cave after we and got back down to the plateau, she did lose some tissue. Here, she and Nima had warmed some water to soak them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/0c66aed4-809c-4f46-b71c-ba821f4eed14/Jeff+Lowe+Mt+Stuart-Edit-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1986: Jeff Lowe on the Ice Cliff glacier below the northeast face of Mount Stuart in the Cascades. We climbed a new route on that face, which, if memory serves, I wanted to call, "Drunk and Stupid" in reference to a local climber with whom I had a mutually contentious relationship. After descending the Cascadian Couloir we decided—actually Jeff decided—to walk 15 miles down the Ingalls Creek drainage to Blewett Pass instead of hiking back over the shorter but steeper Stuart Pass that would take us back to our vehicle. It was awful. I was wearing rock shoes as my boot liners to save some weight ... yeah, it was the 80s and I was trying to figure things out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9bc3baee-e7dc-4576-8010-192698c64890/MFT_EQ_tights-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1985: The hot pink skunk stripe was fading out of my hair but the natty scarf (oh so Euro) and sleeveless Think Pink tank top kept me on the front of the fashion train ... I'd been calling my thing, whatever that thing was, Equipe Solitaire, aka "the team of one" for a year or so and wrote it on a lot of clothes with a Sharpie. Later it was stitched onto my one-piece motorcycle leathers, which was pretty cool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/72156fe8-1e83-46ed-80ad-8b5fa0eedf57/MFT_Nock_Colchuck-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People November 1981: Perfect high pressure in the Cascades. Andrew Nock and I climbed the northeast couloir on Colchuck Peak, not yet having learned the confidence to try the north face of Dragontail. We eventually did it though, in real winter, skiing up the road and trail, and climbing the face wearing Asolo Summit telemark boots made rigid by clamping a set of Foot Fangs to them ... very cutting edge for the time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ffbee986-da23-46da-a8ae-a46da3efcc55/MFT+Symmetry+Spire+1981-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People July 1981: On the summit of Symmetry Spire in the Tetons. An 11mm rope, socks in my rock shoes, Carhartts, a Rugby shirt ... of course I was a climber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/0255d2db-6cb8-4d2c-812a-66e7589a1f5c/KDC+Guidebook.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People Summer 1981: Kirt Cozzens checking the "guidebook" (such as it was at the time) for Devils Tower while climbing on Devils Tower. Kirt and I spent a lot of time together that summer and later, in the winter of 1982-83 when his family hosted me in Cody while I tried to find a job that would keep me there (having seen the enormous climbing potential). The job never happened and I split but not before we did the first ice climb up the South Fork in what would later become a paradise of frozen waterfalls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/5490af62-7cb2-4a78-9c2c-ed32c49e940a/Kangtega+Team+in+BC-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : People 1986: Jeff Lowe, MFT, Tom Frost, Bruce Rogar, Alison Hargreaves ready to leave Kangtega base camp to attempt the northwest ridge. Bruce got altitude sick on the first night so descended on his own. We made the first ascent of the route in alpine style over ten days, with Tom and Jeff climbing the northwest summit, while Alison and I reached the main summit (22,251') at 4:30pm on May 1st. The sun set two hours later and we spent the next seven hours with fading headlamps and failing energy rappelling and down-climbing back to our snow cave. Alison frostbit her toes. I chopped my first bollard after we ran out of ice screws. The next day it took 40 more rappels and a long walk to get back to base camp. https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-image/project-one-f5w4d-r4h29 monthly 0.5 2024-09-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/78a2bcc2-09d7-44e8-9d5c-df7c49cfa84e/AigPlan_Misty_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Aiguille du Plan, Chamonix https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/55a47339-f420-4d8b-bf31-247bf165ebd5/AmaDablam_from_Kangtega_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Looking north from the top of Kangtega https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/db147c72-2a29-470b-b8eb-665abd2b987f/Blatiere_Sunset_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Aiguille de Blatiere, Chamonix https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/638ffb1b-decd-4dca-8f41-40cc69e098fe/Chorten_Nepal_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Looking south from Nuptse base camp https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/d25ef54b-644f-4663-be8b-1fc225a82401/Dru_Verte_FromCave_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land View from a cave below the Grands Charmoz, Chamonix https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/a1a81cae-8e5e-403d-ad06-b71f96737e4b/img_381_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Grands Charmoz, summer 1985 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/5b152104-f671-4cf0-af00-1fd7abd68c79/Drus_Flammes_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Les Drus, Chamonix https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ccaaec92-2d6b-4dfe-8b34-a7d98372723a/img159_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Illampu, Bolivia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4274edee-5c1a-458e-89ab-2f0643cc261d/img174_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Peak Vorobyova and Peak Communism behind it https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/dbf564ed-4c37-4e6d-a778-66151244beac/img191_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Khan-Tengri, south face https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/8a3b76d7-9c63-4cf9-b3b4-34a06bb5cde3/Thermometer_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/00e20088-97e5-48df-89ec-b3028c296b36/img352-Edit-Edit-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Aiguille du Midi https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/2f510d76-b481-4f18-b6e3-819b9efae315/img334_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Nuptse base camp , 1986 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b6a3eb79-5344-4727-8cbf-1875220d0152/Mont_Blanc_Pilier+Rouge_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Pilier Rouge de Brouillard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/d1694561-d1e7-4b0f-8519-535e1dbc0459/IMG_0412-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land West Buttress of Denali https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/4720e8b2-b46b-4cda-89ca-9087a800df90/img351-Edit_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Les Drus, Chamonix https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/239d6610-69f0-48dd-ab7b-8f9595c252d1/img_384_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Leschaux Refuge https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/018cc2da-d399-4021-b587-531fc03a414c/img378_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land South Inylchek galcier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/d81ef486-5d1a-4209-977c-c04042e02623/img311_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Trying to escape from Tibet https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/54925896-1dca-459e-9333-e4e66a83f052/img335-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land December 1986: Detail of the south pillar of Nuptse in winter conditions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/28b4dad3-317a-43d8-8025-e5a3c95f672f/Old_Couvercle_Hut_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Old Couvercle refuge https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/6b3397df-d626-4476-b59a-231f98e84ace/Piz_Badile_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Piz Cengalo and Piz Badile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/6f6f2427-7d9a-4fc8-8e52-06ea85f14791/IMG_1197_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Mount Superior https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/735a0d05-e32c-4fcc-b215-8e0a7a98ccf4/Annecy_de_Semnoz_1_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Lac d'Annecy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ea287c96-6940-4453-bd19-66e1bf75e020/IMG_0507_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Monument of the Resistance, by Émile Gilioli https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/cd34fc4c-d716-48b0-85c1-820e4ea358f5/IMG_0501_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Live Free Or Die https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/c37a532e-16ad-4953-b0d6-9ff87db877df/IMG_0500_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Monument of the Resistance, by Émile Gilioli, https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/dd29ef8d-e2d2-465b-bc3e-1c69405dbcd1/Iceberg_Arch_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Antarctica https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/cae8fab2-fea2-404e-8047-9e8945b9dd05/IMG_1541_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Above Molas Pass https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/efa19682-e9fd-4b8e-b69c-bc7dc5e79f76/IMG_3575_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Cole in Castle Valley https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/b2f7820e-7746-4ac0-a387-ec47b1a24a37/img094_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land On the way to Gilgit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/6fa23f9a-3458-4da9-b171-c176ff81e479/img178-Edit_1850.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land July 1990: Time-lapse of my headlamp approaching the north wall of Peak Communism. I was tricked onto the face by what appeared to be one of the most incredible lines of ice I had ever seen. After climbing about 1000 feet the feature revealed itself to be powder snow and unclimbable so I had to bail. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/5b8055fd-50e0-4546-941a-e519721ee04f/Aiguilles_CloudsSunset-Edit_Email_Lr+copy.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Les Aiguille de Chamonix from the Bivouac des Periades https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ba2cbd6b-15dc-4bff-9c60-67b8b59fbbd1/img374_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Tibet https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3079adb9-c883-4384-aa33-bf37c77e3963/img119_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Dave Kahn's original gravestone, Chamonix https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/83fe0fae-1ed9-42dc-936a-f6ebd38398fa/Philippe%27s_headstone_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Philippe Mohr's gravestone https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/faf9148e-2126-44bb-a5b2-c4fc3ba276e7/Respectez_Nos_Morts_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Respect Our Dead https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/62b6723e-3ba8-44f2-ae5d-ece3fdb73055/V.Pelerins+copy+1-Edit-Edit_Folio_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land North face of the Aiguille des Pelerins with "Beyond Good and Evil" shown https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/21d8678f-e0ea-409b-ba38-38dce35503a0/Nuptse_South_Pillar.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land The awesome south pillar of Nuptse ... the elegance of a Halston dress and the aggressiveness of a metal-studded dog collar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/d40f5fec-1ad1-477c-ace9-ad41a57aa5a3/Les+Drus+1+%282%29_FOLIO.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Autumn snow on Les Drus https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/9d742acc-49de-4b9e-86ab-ee4b175b3048/img200_Email_Lr.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land I think this is one of Luna's Tits, Antarctic Peninsula https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/87850918-717c-4be3-a2a8-a906e098bcf0/Hunter+from+DenaliEdit-2_Folio_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Mount Hunter from 17,000' on Denali https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/3496501f-249f-4d4d-98f0-522a6ca91478/Antarctica+Mountain+1_FOLIO.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land Antarctic Peninsula https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/66c9b1f8ab23c658da5a76c0/ead76e48-58c8-4653-8ddf-7fdf534e0430/Aiguilles+2-Edit_Folio_1.jpg Old School Image - Old School : Land The Chamonix Aiguilles from La Flegere, autumn 1984 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video daily 0.75 2024-10-28 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/mark-twight-exhibition-at-essential-photo-supply monthly 0.5 2025-09-04 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/39xc86edc79577797ndy2es3l6w5bh monthly 0.5 2024-10-21 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/jk4emhsshnmend9z9fggme8jgx3zyt monthly 0.5 2024-10-21 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/xs5w5cj7sfzmmcajxn46w9enp8yxps monthly 0.5 2024-10-21 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/farewell monthly 0.5 2025-09-04 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/ptl-ice-climbing monthly 0.5 2025-09-04 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/hosted-with-custom-z9ehj-dwh9x-dnxs9 monthly 0.5 2025-09-04 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/planet-earth-mejnx-d2a8y-8fxdh monthly 0.5 2025-09-04 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/everything-to-sell-anything-427ge-88xsk-myleb monthly 0.5 2025-09-04 https://www.marktwight.com/old-school-video/v/john-mcenroe-does-voice-over-now-zpk5h-tc9nt-kpckh monthly 0.5 2025-09-04